Tag Archives: Europe 1952

60 Years Ago Today

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Tuesday, 24 June 1952:

This had been such a charming spot. It was hard to leave. So far I would say France and Italy were quite similar, except it was my impression that Italy was less expensive, had cleaner restaurants, and had more war damage. The people seemed to be in greater need because they had more street peddlers. Perhaps I may change my mind on these things later. Also the shops had hoola doors which were kind of oriental like. We left the beautiful city of Rapallo climbing upward along the seashore, then down again to the next town, and up again towards the mountains which was between us and the sea. There were impressive winding roads and mountainous territory to view.

While learning about Rome on the bus, we passed Volterra which was an ancient town. We learned Rome was founded by Romulus and Remus according to legend. These twins were left to die in the wild by their uncle, but were found and suckled by a mother wolf. Later in life Romulus killed Remus in a quarrel and named the new city Rome after himself.

Herr Watkins’ notes about Rome said that it was the center of Italian civilization. Roman architecture contributions included the round arch and dome, the Pantheon and Coliseum. Many characteristics were called Roman culture by the Greeks. Roman abstract justice was one of their greatest contributions. There was a gradual degradation of the Roman ruins.

Now back to the scenery around us with pine trees, fields terraced on the mountains, and dotted thatched homes up the mountainside. The country was much like Yellowstone I thought. There were grapevines on the edge of each terraced level with plants next to the mountain. I saw funny haystacks with a pole down the middle of the haystack that was tapered to the top like a teepee.

There were many hair-raising turns on the way down into LaSpezia. Andre had to back up on one curve to make it around the curve. LaSpezia was a seacoast city on a hill. I observed a building with dozens of white plaques covered with names on the outside. The whole town formed a military guard in front. I spied an old moat, some red and white flowers grouped around the plaza, and rows of palm trees along the beach. Later I caught sight of the seaport with flower stalls on the road. Then the valley widened and the road straightened out.

As soon as we stopped to pick up some food to eat I ran all over creation trying to find bread. A little boy showed us to a little paneria or bakery down an alley. We had to try eating on the moving bus—with dirty hands. Whatta mess! At the same time we tried to watch the scenery and Dr. Rogers told us about Pisa.

Now we were in Pisa where four buildings in the square made up the Square of Miracles. The Leaning Tower of Pisa, one of the buildings, had a 13 foot lean, 180 foot height on one side and 177 on the other side. The Leaning Tower of Pisa was built in weak, unstable subsoil and the foundation was not deep enough. And there was a slight slip in the land just after it was built. Cement has been inserted to keep it from leaning further.

I was the first one to climb to the top of the Leaning Tower which cost 120 lire. I could feel the slant of the tower while walking up the winding stairs. It was hollow inside and had little stairs to the top. There were six bells and one wall was thicker than the other with the thirteen foot lean.
Next we saw the monumental cemetery, Camposanto Monumentale, a historical edifice at Cathedral Square. A legend claimed that bodies buried in that ground rot in just 24 hours. The cemetery, which costs 60 lire to get in, was badly bombed during World War II and was in ruins. The Italians were in the process of restoring all of the buildings.

At one time the monumental cemetery walls were completely covered with murals. There were only traces of some of them left now. Many works of art were ruined from World War II as well. Original murals were being measured to make sure they were restored to their original condition. There were tombs all along the side walls of different shapes and sizes.

We talked to some workmen about the bombings. They said “the Americans did it.” Obviously they didn’t think we were Americans. Some statues had escaped damage but tourists had written their names all over them. Just like on the top of Pisa, names were written and carved everywhere.

The Baptistry of the Cathedral, the third building, was the largest baptistry in Italy. There were round holes on the round podium for baptisms and the balcony up above was a dome. Going through I noticed it had an echo. Echoes of one man sounded like a whole chorus.

Finally we discovered the cathedral which was in the middle of the plaza and the last of the four buildings. It was one of the foremost monuments of Medieval architecture in the world. Made in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral was devoted to the Virgin Mary and was built entirely in marble. It was Gothic Romanesque and Renaissance combination, I think, with some stained glass. It had beautiful murals and interesting ceilings. The cathedral had about four or five different altars. Outside there were funny toadstool trees. But we barely had time to step inside the cathedral because we had a feeling the mob was ready to go.

Once again we were back on tree-lined roads with lily ponds, weeping willows, grain fields, and grain piled in big stacks. Signs on the sidewalk still said “U.S. Go Home. Ridgway la peste.” We eventually stopped at Livorno (Leghorn) for our own spot for the night.

We drove down through the narrow streets and even right past the hotel. The hotel was hidden by its similarity to all the other buildings around it. It was quaint and interesting. I had room three on the ground floor which opens onto a beautiful patio. There was green paint on the French doors.

We found two big bathtubs on the next floor but there was only cold water. We went down to the beach in shorts and caused the usual or a little more than usual stir of attention. The beach was a poor man’s beach. It was smelly and had poor little kids on the beach. It cost 70 lire at the first entrance and 50 lire at the next one. The mob gathered around and piled up their belongings between two of the kids sunbathing. Some of the kids crawled through the rocks and moss and cut their feet. A few of us rented a blue ski boat for 150 lire. And Henry rowed a boat which almost capsized. Later Betty Lou, Eloise and I sunbathed. Finally we rowed out to the island. An Italian man in a rowboat hovered close around and we called him our guardian angel. There were ships in the harbor and sailboats.

We created a major commotion in getting back to the hotel. Carol was in a bathing suit, Eloise in a bathing suit and pedal pushers, and Betty and I were in shorts. People were running out of doors and hanging out of the windows to look at us. We were four pied pipers with a troupe of kids following us.The people on bikes rode past us several times and must have passed the word along, because it was the longest walk we ever took. The hotel was a welcome sight.

The group with Herr Watkins had a similar experience. He was wearing his shorts and people thought he was out in his underclothes. Back at the hotel I had a cold bath. Brrr! I got ready for dinner which was several blocks downtown. Once again we were still the center of attention. I guess they’re not used to seeing tall girls.

Dinner consisted of spaghetti, ice cream, and an orange for 480 lire. Cherries were thrown in for extra. We talked to an American civilian working at the army base here. As we chatted to John from Tennessee and Maria from Italy, they told us the hotel was in the midst of communism. They said Italian people were better off than the other European countries from World War II. And that the U.S. had such a poor propaganda system, the Italians didn’t even know who was helping them. The manager then asked us to go inside. Namely because too many people were gathering on the street.

So we went inside and had a round table discussion. John told us that the Italian people do not analyze things and that they pass from one party to the next. The Italians were easily aroused. It just depended on who was helping them get work.

60 Years Ago Today

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Monday, 23 June 1952:

I had my bags down at 7:30 a.m. and then I went foraging for breakfast. The Italians stared even more openly than the French. I decided I liked Italian bread better than French bread.
We began the day with the Beghin Lido beach with a striped beach house. Farther down there were school kids doing callisthenics on the beach. Another beach had a tank barrier and a woman washing clothes in an almost dried up stream. Everywhere there were dozens of blue and white round signs.

Next was Genova, population 330,000, which had five harbors wrecked during World War II. This area became important during the Renaissance period. It grew rapidly and compelled commercialism with Venice and Florence. There were battle scars mixed in with some new modern buildings.

Christopher Columbus was born and lived here. There were five monuments here in honor of Columbus. The highest culture in Europe was found in Italy in the republic cities during the time of Columbus. Then we discovered the chapel of John the Baptist and one of the most ambitious cemeteries with many fine monuments and tombs. The tomb of Magzona, a famous Italian writer, was here.

The Italians stopped the blasting and were trying to reclaim and rebuild the bombarded buildings. There were crowded narrow streets everywhere with signs of Gillette Blue Blades, even in Italy. Italians were repairing and rebuilding streets, wharves and warehouses. This city really had been pummeled. Even now the city was in tremendous ruins. The harbor had been almost totally reconstructed. A big ship had just come into the port.

Gilosde Genova had a huge granary near the wharves. There were marks between old scarred buildings, clothing hanging from the windows of the buildings, big gates of old city walls, and a street named after Petrach. A beautiful fountain was in the center of the square. In modern Genova there was a definite contrast between ancient and modern. Genova imported from four to six times more products than they exported.

The vines were growing all over Columbus’ house in the center of the city. The wall of the city in 1249 a.d. had dirt and filth inside the wall. We stopped at the street named Dante right along by Columbus’ home and a bank. Those Italian eyes were really boring holes in us.

France and Italy rivaled each other in population. Italy had a larger immigration than any other country in Europe. Italy’s huge population was counterbalanced with the lack of opportunity available for its citizens. Rome used to control the entire Mediterranean world. In the 1800’s Garibaldi, an Italian military and political figure, who sailed from Genova and landed at Palermo, sought to gather volunteers for his impending campaign here.

As we drove high on a hill above the sea coming out of Genova, we gradually came down again and then up again past an old castle and estate by the sea. Trees grew out of the bank at a horizontal angle. We crossed a bridge which looked like it was only partially built. Whew! We made it! In looking back at the bridge, it didn’t look very substantial. We passed a church by the sea with a big clock on each side of the tower. There was an ugly red house with green shutters and beautiful gardens between the road and sea. There were more trees growing at an angle above the sea. I spied a beautiful castle down by the sea.

Rapallo, a city in Italy, was coming up. This was a short trip and we spent the afternoon on the beach. Our Verdi Hotel was high on a hill overlooking the town and the sea not far from the beach. I had room 46 with Alene. We were the first ones to our rooms.

We had a balcony in our room. Everyone who had a balcony promptly used it as a communication with everyone else with a balcony. It caused quite a commotion. Afterwards we ventured down to the beach via the little trails. There were steps and paths between the buildings. It cost 100 lire for the beach and bath houses. The water was warm and fairly clean as we played water baseball and catch. When we returned, I had a cold bath in Helen’s room.

Then we went out to eat dinner. However, no one served food until 6 p.m. We wandered around the shops, and met another bunch of kids including Eloise from Utah, who had just eaten at a pensione or guesthouse across the bridge. Phew—smelly river! Finally we had dinner at Mello’s. It consisted of spaghetti and later some pastries, like in France. Afterwards we met bunches of kids at a movie where it was 150 lire for my second pastry. It was a nice theater, but not a large clientele. We crawled through the dark to find our seats and sat down just as the lights went on.

The lights turned on subsequently after every short trailer and intermissions. The movie, Incantesimo Tragico, had a very dramatic plot which we were able to follow for the most part. We were slightly confused on some of the side plots, however. It was a tragedy, but we couldn’t tell for sure whether the heroine died or not.

All of us ended up at Mello’s for more spaghetti later on. The manager showed us how to eat spaghetti. The delicious bread veal cutlets with potatoes and beans was even better than the spaghetti before the cinema. There wasn’t a cover charge, just 10% service for the two big baskets of fruits the waiter brought in for dessert. Andre came in to eat as well.

Afterwards we talked to an Italian looking lady. However, she ended up being an English lady from London, who was non-Italian speaking with an Italian friend. She had purchased for her little girl a pair of wooden-soled sandals and the little girl squealed with delight for everyone to hear. They seemed to be friends of the manager.

When we were so stuffed with food that we could scarcely move, we noticed it was dark outside and we were too scared to leave. Finally, we decided to go. When we crossed the bridge and street to Hotel Verdi, it was dark and windy. We kept imagining noises with the little lights here and there in the dark that looked like lit cigarettes. Gratefully they turned out to be fireflies. But we ran the last stretch to the hotel and found a maid waiting at the door.

60 Years Ago Today

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Sunday, 22 June 1952:

Breakfast was in our room again. At 8:30 a.m. we had our bags down and then we had chorus practice. Afterwards we wandered around the streets until we went to church. In the church the fan had to be turned off in order to hear anything. And it was so warm in there! I shook hands with everyone—so wonderful too! Two members gave talks and then we took over the program and repeated “Paree.” At the conclusion we shook hands with everyone again. Margaret Brown gathered some francs to give to the missionaries for some of the poorer members. Instead of going to dinner we hurried back to the amphitheater to take pictures and see the marines marching. We stopped and picked up dry ham sandwiches and ate them on the way.

At 1:30 p.m. we left Nice via a beautiful scenic seaside route. My adjectives failed me at this time. We don’t have enough superlatives in English to describe the scenes we discovered today. Then we stopped for a half an hour in Monte Carlo at the famous casino. The State of Monaco was not part of France or Italy, but a sovereign city state on the French Riviera. This was everything I imagined it would be.

As the French and Italian border came up, Herr Watkins collected our passports. A French customs agent stamped our whole lot and passed them back down to us. We drove a little ways and then two Italian officials came on the bus to check our passports individually. They were nice and courteous. A little farther down the road we came to some more officials where we had to declare our cash. Dick took a list into the customs office and we were off to see Italy.

The first thing I noticed In Italy was the ruins of the bombed buildings. The buildings were pock marked with shells among the terraced fields, which were not sloping like in Mexico. A great black cloud appeared in contrast to the pure blue of the water. Then a long black train emerged from the smoke below.

We traveled from high to low and up high we could see the roads across the water. Herr Watkins said it marked the shallow spots. The water near the shoreline was transparent and it took on different hues depending on the sea floor. I lost track of the towns, because I was too busy absorbing the beauty of the coastline.

We passed through Mignon, Vertimighlia, Imperia, Alsesai, and Albengia before reaching Savona. And along this gorgeous drive we looked at beautiful fields of roses, local patches of maroonie-purplish flowers along the fences, and flowers hanging from the walls of the mountains. We were taken back to World War II by the shelled buildings in almost every town. There were more winding picturesque roads.

Later we saw a bicycle race and a group of boys and girls dressed alike with short, striped shirts apparently going home from school. In one town, they had flags of all different colors flying and a Navy band marching. It must be some kind of celebration. Some place along our way someone yelled to us and Andre discovered we were leaking gas or oil.

We stopped at the next town and spent some time there getting a new gasket. I took a nap just before we got there, so I missed some of the excitement. When I woke up I spotted a beautiful Italian girl. On our way again as dusk fell, we sang all the old famous hymns starting with America. We passed through several tunnels as the road followed the beach closely.

It was after nine at night when we started coming into Savona. After winding through the dark streets, we came to a stop on a street. I couldn’t tell which door was the Hotel Alberto. Herr Watkins warned us to watch our bags and travel in large groups for safety.

At the hotel we went through the café to the hotel desk where 18 of us were staying. The rest of us were in another hotel through the street. The room looked much better than the facade would have indicated. The WC wasn’t so hot though, but this was more like what we had been expecting all along.

The maid insisted on taking all of our passports. Yours truly was bound and determined not to give it up, but I did! We had a good laugh out of it later. This was what happens all over Italy in registering at a hotel.

The dinner in the hotel café was good. I had spaghetti, meat, salad and fruit for 60 lire. I dropped into bed exhausted. It was creaky, but felt wonderful.

60 Years Ago Today

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Saturday, 21 June 1952:

We had breakfast in our room with chocolate rolls and jam. The missionaries were going to Grasse with us. We stopped at the American Express to put in a claim for Watkins’ severely damaged suitcase. Several other suitcases were banged up, but not as badly. Herr Watkins bought a new one.

Grasse was a small Medieval town on the French Riviera, that was founded as a Republic in the 12th century. In 1732 Heinrich Herterich was a Franchard painter here. Later Pauline Boneparte, younger sister of Napoleon, separated from her husband in 1887 and came to Grasse. It provided a quiet little city for convalescents. Queen Victoria spent several winters here. Napoleon came here after his escape from Elba and was received here at Grasse, but he only stayed one hour.

Grasse, built on a hill, was a major support of the perfume and tourist industry in France. It takes one ton of flowers to make one quart of perfume or two pounds of essence. The process involves fat drawing perfume from the flowers and alcohol extracting the perfume from the fat. Then it is mixed with alcohol to make liquid and beeswax to make solid perfume. There are different processes for each flower as some flowers are more delicate.

Girl workers can’t eat garlic for three months when working with the perfume in the third process while aging perfume for three months in agitators. In the last stage, the perfume is mixed with alcohol 15-18% blended or straight. Everybody was smelling the perfume like mad. It smelled good, too!

The perfume manager had been in the movie business for 12 years in publicity and production. However he liked the perfume business better. Face powders and creams were also manufactured here. Vegetable coloring was used to make powder rouge and lipstick. I gave Herr Watkins a bottle of pain restorers for his headache. Then we had a beautiful scenic drive back .
We stopped to eat at the restaurant, La Cyrano, with the missionaries. We had a good dinner with potage, macaroni au gratin, ham, potatoes and two desserts for 270 francs. Afterwards Carol and I went shopping at Lafayette Galaria for gloves and baby clothes. I didn’t buy anything though. In any case I spotted a store with Iris on the front.

We visited an old cathedral. Just as we were leaving, a funeral procession was coming in. The priest stood by the door and the pall bearers carried in the wooden casket from the hearse. A handful of mourners in black followed the casket.

We window shopped on the way back “home”. We had to ask for directions to the hotel several times, but on our way back we had a strawberry pastry. Gee, everybody wore shorts in this town. I wondered if it could be a beach town.

Touring Students View History, Personality of Old France

(Editor’s note: This is another letter from Mrs. George H. Hansen of Provo on her impressions of a tour she is making with 36 college students through Europe.)

Dear Friends,
Can you imagine this group of Brigham Young University students swimming in the Mediterranean Ocean? We could hardly believe it ourselves-that three weeks after leaving home, we find ourselves on the French Riviera of Cannes in Southern France.

The weather is pleasantly warm this morning and I am sitting here in the Cecil Hotel watching the servants prepare the hotel for the day, also I am watching the street vendors hurrying on their way to market.

After seeing the beautiful blue of the Mediterranean, it is the tall date palms and magenta colored bougainvillea, that attract our attention.

The enchantment of distance has for days now given way to the romance of reality, as we travel along the tree-lined highways. Our comfortable American Express bus is being chauffeured by Andre, a genial Frenchman of about 40 years of age. The loud speaking system, a very good educational device, permits all of us to hear the two professors, and occasionally the missionaries, tell the stories of history as our imagination sees them in the making.

We have seen the conquest of France by the Romans. Those immense amphitheaters (two) with thick stone walls built in the first century B.C. are still being used. Across the street from our hotel in Nimes, France we saw the numerous arched entrances, which afford an exit, in a matter of minutes, for more than 20,000 spectators who will see a bull fight there Saturday.

We are told that there are more Roman ruins here than there are in Rome. There are also more swallows living in crevasses and niches of the ruins than there are in Utah.

A picture of the old beside the new was seen in Vienne. The beautiful old Temple of Aquate et de Liver, built in 41 A.D., is located across the street from an American Launderette where 12 or more automatic washers are in motion.

For several hours on Wednesday we stopped at Fontaine-bleau. We walked through the halls where that big-little man Napoleon walked and talked. His bed was so short that we felt sorry for him, until we learned that he was only five feet and two inches tall. He often carried one of his beds with him when going to battle.

When Napoleon and other emperors and kings of France were at home they lived in the splendor we now marvel. The carved, gilted wood ceilings were designed to correspond with the floors of nine to 15 different kinds of wood. The exquisitely chiseled crystal and bronze chandelier, for which Napoleon paid 4000 francs (more that $1300) in 1945, is probably the largest of many.

The velvety black, carved ebony cabinet of Empress Marie Louise and the harp of Empress Josephine are only a part of the elaborate furnishings of this old stone chateau, built in the 11th Century. The stone staircase, horseshoe-shaped, at the entrance is a mark of individuality for such buildings.

But this country of France does not lack for individuality. Indeed, the personality of these 43 million Frenchmen is sometimes puzzling and sometimes provocative. The little old man driving a mother turkey with two little ones in front of our bus; the street cleaners whisking the gutters with their willow brooms; the small statue of Mother Mary carved in rock about 20 feet above the highway; and palatial homes on the Riviera are all scenes of amazement to the traveler.

-Afton A. Hansen

We took a nap at the hotel for a few minutes. Then we went on our way to a military concert around 8 p.m. We stopped at A La Riviera Department Store to get a piece of material to make a purse. We arrived at an intersection jammed with people. This must be the place. Then music started coming from down the street. The French Navy (at least that was our interpretation of their uniform) came marching into the center of the square. There was more music as the Marines marched in from another street. In competition with the Marines and Navy, the Army came in from still another street. The Air Corp. marched in last and took a position between the other two forming somewhat of a square in the middle.

They played several numbers together and then the Navy wearing berets marched off. They were followed by the Marines in Khaki. Then the Air Corps, which were wearing white hats, strolled toward the beach through a park. There seemed to be a crowd going in a certain direction, so we followed them and ended up at an outdoor amphitheater with the Navy on the stage getting ready to play. We recognized Aprea de ma Blonde and a medley of English tunes including Old Folks at Home. The Marines in khakis and white followed. Both of them played standing up. They brought chairs in for the French Air Corp. They had more of a concert type band with flutes.

Alice talked to the lady next to us and she said they are just marching through Nice for other parts of France. Gee, I really wish I had brought my camera with me. I could have gotten some great pictures as the sunset. Some people started leaving when the more classical numbers were being played by the Air Corp. The other two groups came back in for the finale. And each time before they started playing each group twirled their horns and trumpets together with flags hanging down from their horns and drums.

The amphitheater had an orchestra pit in front of the stage and above the stage were statues, flags, and hanging ferns. A big statue at the back of the arena was put there to celebrate the French Centennial by the maritime services from 1792-1803. Emblems of the crown of France and Navy were displayed at the front of the stage. There were white wooden folding chairs placed throughout for seats. Each level was covered with coarse grass and had a stone edge. We were hoping they would play the French National Anthem and they did! Everyone stood up for La Marseillaise and so did we. We watched the bands crawl into their trucks right in front of the beach and we waved to them. Soon after we strolled on down the beach as if nothing had happened.

After hearing music across the way, we followed it to the Hotel Ruhl. They had beautiful sidewalks and an inside restaurant bar with an orchestra. A sign near the entrance stated they were open all year long. We caught the sight of delicious silver platters of food through the doors of the restaurant. And there was a window display of beautiful clothes inside the lobby. Next was a huge lounge with plush red Victorian furniture and really big lamps with peach satin shades in all four corners. I mean really huge lamps! Then I sat down on the wooden bench outside the hotel to write these notes. Our stomachs were calling so we were off in search of food.

Guess what? Here is Le Cyrano again. It wasn’t too bad the first time so I guess we’ll give it another shot. I had hors-d’oeuvres, ham, potatoes, raspberry and apple butter. An English fellow at a table near ours wrote a note on his napkin “Did you get what you ordered?” He sent it over with the waitress. As he left he came by and talked to us for a moment and we thanked him for his concern. When we got to the two desserts, Alice ordered an orange. She peeled it and lo and behold it was red instead of orange. She asked the waitress how come she got a rouge orange. The waitress explained that she thought it was an orange sanguine from Spain. It was as red as blood.

Later we came down the dark alley from Lilygrass where there was a lady on the street with a dog. Then we cut back to the main thoroughfare, Victoire, even though it meant retracing our steps back to the hotel. At the hotel we crawled into bed as fast as possible.

60 Years Ago Today

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Friday, 20 June 1952:

Around 6:15 a.m. or thereabouts we put our swimming suits on first and then our clothes. I went down the street for breakfast and had two little bananas and one orange for 66 francs. The French children were just going to school.

Then we were back on the road again. We came to Arles, an ancient Roman city in France, which had an arena that seats 26,000. After that we saw an obelisk, a Cathedral of St. Trophine, a cloisters, and an Alaede Tombs (once Roman cemetery). Honoring at church was one of the principal activities in the town.

The next town we came to turned out to be Arles. Andre had got off on the wrong road and we had to go back to Nimes. We found a blind priest with a dog along the way. Andre decided to keep the latecomers roll in order to get the kids back to the bus on time.

While on the bus I was learning to count in Italian. This part of the country looks about like Cedar City to me. We went back past the Maison Temple, white house hotel, and plaza. It ‘s 10:30 a.m. and we’re off again. Well this country looks a little richer. We came to the Le Petit Rhone tributary. We had to get out and walk across the bridge because it could only hold eight tons and we weighed twelve tons. The bus was eight tons, and we were four tons. That’s a lot of weight!
Then we crossed the big Rhone again in Arles. There was a former ancient palace, Museon Arlaten,which was established as a museum in 1876. Afterwards we saw a statue of St. Christopher, an old carriage, and a statue of Neptune that was made in the 17th century for Louis XIV. I noticed oleander was growing out of the rocks. The Venus de Arles sculpture in the Louvre probably came from these ruins.

We were given 10 minutes and it was 30 minutes before we left. How can we keep a late roll when almost everybody is late? Herr Watkins and Henry were the last ones to come back. On the road again there was a field covered with piles of rocks like it was trying to reclaim the land. I slept through Salon Aix en Provence which is a region with beautiful statues and fountains. Then the landscape changed to mountainous roads. It looked a lot like Utah.

We stopped at a Shield service station for a little exercise. We were grateful for a nice rest room. Now we were seeing red soil as we discovered a grey streamlined train and our first glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea.

Frejus, a seaside region with a medieval city as well, was a popular seaside resort. There were ruins of an old Roman aqueduct, barbed wire entanglements around some kind of military base, white buildings with orange trim, chocolate guards at the gate, cement mixers, and winding mountainous roads going into Cannes. The kids started putting on their bathing suits in the back of the bus.

Finally the beach. What a sight! There were boats and people with a beautiful white hotel along the waterfront. We walked along the beach front admiring the suntans of the bathers. The beach was lined with umbrellas and lounging chairs. The water was buoyant and we rode the waves and walked down along the beach to a pier. Carol and I laid down on the pier in the sun. The mob had gone back to the bus, so we followed them. I had my picture taken with Andre. We piled back into the bus with wet bathing suits and all.

It’s about 7 p.m. now. On the road out, Andre tried to get through an underpass that we didn’t quite fit in. It ended up scraping the baggage on the top of the bus. So Andre had everyone pile to the front so he could back up the bus without fouling things up any worse.

We took the Oleander lined road going out of Cannes toward Nice. It seemed to have the bluest water in the world. It was a city of comparisons with the old and new. There were beautiful new Spanish style homes with palm trees. Nice seemed like a continuation of Cannes with beautiful waterfront hotels.

Our Hotel Cecil was farther downtown, but it was not bad looking. There were bathrooms in every room which was almost too good to be true. Elders Waite and Valentine had met us at the hotel.
Back in the room I jumped in the tub and then had a delicious dinner for 360 francs at the restaurant down the street. I had potage jambon (ham), beans and fruit. I tried to write a letter to Bud, but fell asleep in the middle of it.

60 Years Ago Today

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Thursday, 19 June 1952:

At 7 a.m. I opened an eye to look at my watch. A few minutes later and a knock came at my door. French—which we presumed meant it was time to get up. A few minutes later that funny buzz again.

“Madam would you like tea in your room?” About 15 minutes later we crawled out of bed and went down to breakfast. We had a continental breakfast of chocolate rolls and jam for 210 francs.
I noticed I had about six bites on my arms. Where did they come from? Then I found a small grocery shop and pastry shop around the corner. I bought a big loaf of bread for 50 francs. Then I chose cheese pastries and fruit but I had left my money belt in my room. However I recovered with the help of Connie and Bette L. I was really trying to lighten my load—maybe too much.
We were back on the road again with fields of flowers, roses, and the Rhone and Saone basin. I learned this was the lowest valley in France and that the Rhone river originates in Switzerland. Soon after the countryside included roses climbing on a cement fence, haystacks, rich agriculture districts, rich meadow lands, and coal districts nearby. I spied wheat, corn, cattle, and poultry. These lowlands funneled the Southern European influence. Then there were Roman ruins from 600 b.c.

Next was the Cathedral of St. Maurice de Vienne in Angers. It had painted archways and recessed portals which were built in the 12th to 16th centuries in Gothic architecture. The cathedral was in a state of decay with the lilies of the valley inside.

Soon after we saw the Temple of Augustus that was originally dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia. Then I noticed more Roman ruins along with a Pagan church, laundromat with an automatic Bendix washing machine across from the temple, and Roman forum ruins, which had been a public square or meeting place.

There was a little girl with the curliest blonde hair I’d ever seen. Just about like the little brunette on the boat who had curls all over her head. Andre, the bus driver, changed the tire while we were looking around the city. We saw the square and found a better closed in “dealy”.
I didn’t see the pyramids, but I saw the grape vineyards with sticks, mowing hay, grass in the fields, and old château ruins. Among these beautiful sights were more “U.S. go home” and “Ridgway la peste” signs along the road. Ridgway was a U.S. general who had come to France as the supreme NATO commander. He had just been in Korea and had been accused of using napalm and germ warfare. Obviously I guess maybe the French don’t like us or something.

We continued on through the old Roman Provinces where it had been Julius Caesar’s first job as governor of this area. It was called Crovance with two main southern dialects. This area was also the homestead of troubadours, who were finders of new kinds of poetry, which composed tales of love and romances.

This land was home of Albigenses, an early protestant group, that were considered heretics by the Catholic Church. Crusades were organized against the Albigenses and finally they were wiped out. In one battle alone, 60,000 Albigenses were slaughtered.

We stopped by a service station near a small town, L’Hermitage, which was south of Erme. There were fields on the sides of the mountains. The fields were planted in layers or steps up the mountainside. While part of the mob ate lunch on the stone fence by the station, others crawled down to the river and lunched amidst the bushes and sand fleas. I was among the latter and ate hunks of French bread with cheese, a French pastry, an orange, a banana, and some cherries. The kids had to use the bushes for another purpose also.

On the road again we saw the first rock or stone fences around the fields and the French farmers were harvesting grain with a small combine affair. There were tree lined roads before we crossed the Rhone River. We passed a trailer camp outside of Valance with not so new modern trailers. And there were dozens of bicycles on the street and it seemed to be the mode of transportation here in France.

Little “Orly”, the town, was just like Paris near the public square. It had street markets with flags flying all along streets. It must be a holiday or market day maybe. Yet it sure looked like Mexico with a junk yard, really piled deep. As we headed to the higher mountains there was a stunning field of purple flowers.

As we drove there were more red “go away, go home” signs. One of the members of the Paris Branch said the U.S. had the poorest propaganda machine of any nation. Europeans probably think Russia was giving them the aid rather than the U.S. These signs we’ve been seeing seem to bear this out.

The next landscape scenery included the sprinkling system in the field, grain standing in piles of shocks, and a big gravel pit. There were colorful brushes, brooms, and dusters on the streets while going through the little town of Montelimar. I slept through part of this town. But as I awoke another sign said “US Go Home.” This is getting monotonous. Then there were more château ruins on the hill.

Later we saw the Theatre Antique and the Triumphal Arch Municipal building built in 25 a.d. with three richly decorated arches. The Triumphal Arch Municipal was built to commemorate the conquering of Marsville. These two buildings are the best preserved monuments of Roman buildings anywhere. Theatrical performances were given in the theatre every August. The theatre had perfect acoustics.

I discovered white strips painted on the trees going around curved roads to act as traffic signals at night. We climbed to the top of the theatre via a narrow ledge and stairs. We met little French boys on the way down and took their picture. Pat got surrounded by the little French boys. They took her picture, Pat took their picture and they exchanged addresses.

In Avignon, France the road was being resurfaced. This area was famous for old papal palaces established in the first decade of the 14th century. The palaces had massive walls that looked like huge fortresses, which were built between 1309-1377 a.d. Popes had established topical medieval walls around most of the city.

In 1377-1338 a.d. there were three Popes. One Pope with headquarters In Avignon, one Pope in the Vatican, and another Pope that was elected. The first two Popes ended up excommunicating each other. Peasants had it good while the Popes reigned because there were lots of holidays and lower taxes.

Then we stopped at the Papal Palace. We waved at the troop of soldiers, passed a moat, crossed the Rhone on an old bridge and saw the famous Avignon Bridge where the peasants danced. The city was turned over to the Popes by the Duchess as expiation for the sins of the people.

Soon after we observed one boat of girls and another boat of boys rowing on the river. Pont du Gard, which was one of the grandest Roman works in existence, had a bridge and aqueduct over the Gard River. It was 880 feet long by 160 feet high. Its system consisted of a system of three arches carrying water for 25 miles to Nimes. Other aqueducts copied Pont du Gard.

There was rocky country as we left Avignon and arrived at the Aqueduct. And the scenery included vineyards, tree lined roads, men harvesting grain with scythe, and another “US Go Home” sign. Maybe it was the communists who keep telling us to go home. I discovered spots to show the middle of the road.

We arrived at the aqueduct and climbed up the winding bush-lined trails. It was a massive structure. I took picture of the kids on the top with the aqueduct from the trail. It took 30 minutes to get to the top instead of 10 minutes. Next was a grove of olive trees, dry dock over some railroads, and houses with green, blue and yellow shutters.

At 7 p.m. we got into the city of Nimes. There was a Roman amphitheater that was built in 140 a.d. which held 20,000 spectators. It was one of the best preserved ancient arenas and it could be emptied in five minutes. This area contains more important well preserved ruins than any other city besides Rome.

Later on the bus ride was the Palais de Justice which was an old Gothic cathedral with flying buttresses. A physician lived here by the name of Nicot. He introduced tobacco in France and gave it his name. Next was the Temple of Maison Carree, considered one of the most beautiful temples of modern times. The French had bullfights in this arena.

Finally, we arrived at the Hotel Le Cheval Blanc. Its facade was nice looking. My room was 59 on the 4th floor. The suitcases were taken down early for tomorrow. I wasn’t able to sleep in my pajamas tonight. Carol and Eloise had difficulty with the door. Twila couldn’t get it to open either, but we finally got it open. The WC was at the other end of the hall. I cleaned up with a foot and spit bath combination. Then we dined at the hotel sidewalk café—omelet cambron and pomes frites for 15 francs. We had one omelet between the three of us.

We strolled down the boulevard in search of a French movie. We turned down one movie with Lucille Ball and then passed a street side cabaret deal with a small orchestra, but no one was dancing. People were sitting around watching each other. They really concentrated on us as long as we were in view. We found a movie Deux Sous de Violettes with Dany Robin. The heroine of the movie had so many heroes it was a little confusing, but quite amusing nonetheless. At the end of the day there was only one pillow on the bed.

60 Years Ago Today

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Wednesday, 18 June 1952:

At 9:40 a.m. we were leaving Paris by way of the Bastille, which was the site of the state prison. The monument was all that was left of the prison. The monument was dedicated to the glory of French citizens who had sacrificed their lives for the Republic and also to remind the French people of the prison which was attacked on July 14, 1789.

Next we continued on by the Palace of Fontainebleau, which was spared by the French Revolution. I thought the palace wasn’t as architecturally interesting as Versaille was though. However, the Palace of Fontainebleau was much older in history and bigger and richer in historical memoirs.

It was originally started in the 12th century by Louis VII and the commune area was known for passions of hunting and love making. The fountain in the woods was owned by Bleau, therefore its name. On the way we caught sight of the Fontainebleau gardens and a garrison which had been established to keep the poachers and robbers away.

There was an archway with a tree which had been trimmed square with American field troops operating by the roadside. Thick vegetation was everywhere with trees and shrubs lining the road. Lot Dayton, Chief Historian at Fontainebleau, was from Weber State College. Earlier he had been a historian for Eisenhower.

In the antechamber we observed Napoleon’s hat, a painting of Napoleon in emperor’s dress, and a beautiful crystal and gold chandelier. The secretariat’s room had a crystal and gilded bronze chandelier in the back room and glass fragments from the tomb of Princess Louise, daughter of Louis XV.

Next were the rooms where Napoleon abdicated the throne before going to Elba. There was a mural showing the power of justice as we continued to the rooms of the emperor where there was a replica of Napoleon’s cradle. The symbol of a general changed to a symbol of an eagle when he became emperor.

Louis XV had decorated these rooms. The Napoleon council room in the minister’s throne room had the bee as a symbol. When he had been a general, he had chosen the honeybee symbol which represented a hard working man. Soon after was a portrait (copy) of Louis XIII, priceless chandelier, 40,000 francs in Napoleon’s time, apartment of Marie Antoinette, present decorations from Louis XVIII, and bedroom of six different Marie’s including Marie Medici, Teresa, Antoinette, and Louise.

Farther on was Marie Antoinette’s bed, Marie Louise’s jewelry box, and Minerva painted on the ceiling, Then we continued on to Empress Josephine’s harp, a music room, and Napoleon III’s Empress Eugenia reception room. It had two original chairs in the different rooms for the lady of honor. Then we discovered the library that had been made for Diane and murals covering the rounded ceiling.

The Renaissance antechamber was where Frances I married Constantine. Then there were more Frances I rooms which had furnishings, a tapestry on chairs of Beauvais, an ivory box belonging to Anne of Austria, and the first glass introduced from the city of Venice in the 16th century. There was a room where Louis XVIII was born.

Next was a square tower room that was the oldest part of Fontainebleau from the 12th century. And all the kings from Francis I and later have added something to the palace. We proceeded on to see enamel incense burners, Henry IV on the horse that was sculptured in marble, , and hand carved ebony cabinets. I noticed Italian work was more ornate than the French. There were fifteen different kinds of wood in the floor and the floor and ceiling corresponded with a similar look.

Louis XV built a stairway as an entrance to other rooms and one of the rooms was the favorite of Francis I. Later the queen had coverings put over the nude statues. The ceiling was finished by Louis Philippe in 1830 and the gallery was completed by Henry II. The gallery room had last been used in 1930. Again there were nine kinds of wood in the floor. Then we noticed the room of the governess of Louis 14th, Salon of Madame du Manteneau. I could see the old entrance and gardens to the palace from the window.

We ate our lunches on the bus after leaving Fontainebleau. Gee—the food sure tasted good! We had sandwiches with some of Alene’s meat (spam, I believe). Then we had bananas, oranges, and a pastry to finish the meal.

The bus ride included varied interesting and beautiful images: wild poppies everywhere, crossing railroad tracks, one red and white pole raised by a lady at a little booth by the side of the tracks, trimmed Montargis tree in the park, sidewalk part of the road which was as wide as the street, water tank with the name of the city of Nogent on it, X on signs for crossroads, repairing roads, wild poppies growing profusely in fields along the roadside, square white mileage signs, and scenery which reminds me of the way to Yellowstone without the pine trees. I couldn’t forget the scenery inside Andre’s bus with a little doll hanging from the top of the windshield.

As we continued traveling we passed the Briare Canal, a tributary of the Seine, and women working in the fields alone. I caught sight of a man on a bicycle with a cart behind him and another lady pulling her cart along the road as well. There was little traffic on the French roads. There was a gorgeous field of tall white flowers was used to make oil for salads. Then we went through a little town that had narrow winding streets like Mexican cities. We moved along a curbed road lined with trees with a valentine sign, a mowed swatch of grass along side the road, and some men working on the railroad Nuervy underpass. After awhile I started dozing. Then Andre hit his funny loud horn and I woke right up.

Along the roadside there was a beautiful grove of trees, load of hay, lumberyard, cut patch of grass raked and ready to bunch. I kept dozing. After my napping I came to realize there was a little horn and big horn that could jerk me quickly out of my sleep.

Now back to sightseeing. La Charite in Loire Valley dispersed on both sides of the River Allier. In the next village I spotted a house covered with climbing vines. Then we passed groves of trees still maturing, Nevers train station, Hotel Moderne, and some grass bunched along the road.
Soon we stopped at the railroad station. Was it really a “dealy” for the bathroom? However, I didn’t go in and walked down the street to the pastry shop. I enjoyed a fresh roll with raisins, an orange, and a drink. Yea, a clean toilette in the shop! Back on the road there was construction on both sides of road. Soon there were cattle in the fields, and then pigs, sheep, and cows.

In the city of Moiry there were cement telephone poles with rectangular squares. And we learned that each average French farm had 25 acres. The tobacco, utilities, armament, and matches industry were run by the government. If there was a fire, owners of the buildings had to pay for the expenses and damages. The franc was worth 25 cents to an American dollar before World War I and about 36 francs to a dollar before World War II.

The French in this area were Celtics. Their language related to Latin, Greek, Slavic. They were a tall fair-haired people that lived in tribes and had the Druid religion. The Romans wiped them out and ruled with no written law. Clovis was the first king to unite all the tribes in France and he became an important leader in France. He was Christian, so all warriors converted to Christianity. Clovis succeeded in driving out the Visigods from Southern France. In 350 a.d. the Franks in the north had headquarters in Paris and the Burgundians were in Southeastern France.
We saw the old Castle Orateau which was built during the Renaissance in the 9th century. As the Frankish kings became weaker, Charlemagne took over from 768-814 a.d. as a Frankish king and helped define Western and Central Europe. Also, Charlemagne protected the Pope while he knelt in prayer and as a result the Pope crowned him the King of the Renaissance.

The Carolingian Renaissance, in 843 a.d. , stands out as a period of intellectual and cultural revival in Europe. This was the beginning of the Romance languages. Later the Burgundians, a Eastern Germanic tribe, with their seat of government in Dijon, France and Geneva, Switzerland were subdued by the Franks. Afterwards, the fierce and warlike Normans came in the 9th and 10th centuries while Rouen was the capital of Normandy. Charles the Simple, the French king, gave his daughter to a Viking leader Rollo. Then the Normans accepted Christianity and became a vassal to the king.

Later the Normans in 1066 a.d. conquered England and the Normans took home with them the French language and culture, because they had forgotten their own. As a result the French language became the official language of Europe.

The Englishmen like action and wild behavior where the Frenchmen were more mind oriented, intellectual and not so sports minded. Also the French loved order and Frenchmen were more subtle in tastes and in expressing their opinions. However the Spanish were passionate. And the Germans loved romantic literature and had feelings of love. Romanticism came to prevail with Victor Hugo, a French playwright and author, for a short period of time.

Back to sightseeing we saw French peasants that were passing through the rich fertile farm area. In the Middle Ages, the French peasants were a little better off than the European peasants in general. They were quite satisfied with their lives as fifty percent had become land owners during the revolution. This status and high percentage was the best in Europe. In 1952 nearly all the land in France was owned by peasants. The peasants represented the one big obstacle to communism. However there were some sharecroppers in Southwest France that were breeding places of communism. Today France and England have the same form of government.

In the 19th century, peasants constituted 75% of the population. Whereas in 1952, 23% of the population were peasants. Tredita Agular lent money to the peasants. But there were no big supermarkets or tractors to be seen anywhere, because peasants disliked machines. When the peasants died out, the farms were given back to the government.

On the road I spied some road construction where the workmen wore wooden shoes. Then we stopped at a small town on the way for drinks and gas at 80 cents a gallon. Before we left we gave gum to two little girls in the restaurant.

Now back in the bus we gazed at the scenery which had beautiful rolling hills, checkerboard farms, and tombs in a cemetery. There were little tombs where people had been buried on top of each other.

Next on the drive was a basketball court, windmill, vineyard, red tile roofs, circus in Roanne, and Loire River. The night brought a beautiful rainbow and sunset. Coming up was Lyon, France which was the largest silk center and one of the leading car producing centers in Europe. It was the second largest city in France.

Finally we arrived at Hotel de Angleterre about 10:30 p.m. We were hungry and the dining room had just closed as we arrived. Can you believe I got a room 51 all by myself! It has a big double bed, plush red cover, and marble fireplace. Sadly Connie came down to sleep with me though.
In the bathroom I discovered a lavatory, foot bath, hot water, and a short bed with a canvas sheet on the bottom. It was a modern look with a roll pillow and big pillow on the bed. Mrs. Hansen and Dick were put in the same room. The hotel changed it when they realized what had been done.

60 Years Ago Today

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Tuesday, 17 June 1952:

I t was a slow start as we discovered the Louvre was not open. Wouldn’t that frost you? And that was where I had planned to spend most of the day. Instead we stopped by an oculist (ophthalmologist) shop to get the ear piece on my sunglasses fixed. Thanks to Alicia, we were successful in getting the lady to understand us.

Then we left a forwarding address at the American Express for the next mail stop. Next was the Lafeyette Department Store that was just like an opera house. It had a dome of stained glass and ornate gold railings around each floor.

We had lunch on the terrace of the Lafayette Department Store after searching four floors to find it. We had a view of the apartment roofs. There were two table cloths, cloth napkins, ice water, and bread. I ordered an omelette and ham while I ate four pieces of bread. Alice got a rare steak, but by using her French she got it recooked some more.

Then we paid the cashier and left for Printemps, another department store, and cheaper restaurant. We found the toy department and bought Kleenex for 325 francs.

Outside again, a lady surprisingly stopped and asked me “ou est la metro?” We tried to help her and then we took the metro to the Seine River. We got off near Sarah Barnhardt’s Theatre and identified the Saint Jacques Tower. We traveled to see St. Chapelle but it was closed. Tuesday’s sure seemed to be the day for everything to be closed.

Instead we strolled down by the Seine River. Here we saw another side of Paris. People lived in river boats with their wash blowing in the breeze. Others seemed to live along the banks, although we didn’t see any shelter for them. One man was washing his clothes in the river while an old beggar was eating trash out of a dirty can. Others were laying by the side of the river sleeping or unconscious. Then we took pictures of some little children and gave them some gum.

We found the Pont Marie metro station to go to the Eiffel Tower. We changed lines five times in order to get to the Eiffel Tower by the shortest route. We switched once at Franklin D. Roosevelt Station, made a mistake, and had to come back to it from Etaile.

The newest and most modern show windows on the trains were of an aluminum looking material. The walls were covered with the same thing as well. It was really smoky and stuffy in the train. I missed a few scenes resting my eyes.

Afterwards, there was one interesting scene with a Negro nanny, daddy and little baby crying. Another scene showed a spinning pool on a stage. It was quite a trick with girls coming down from the ceiling. I took several good shots from the second Etage (story). I was going to walk up to see it but I didn’t have time. The metro was jammed with people going home from work. We literally rubbed shoulders with the people of France.

I met a cute little English man coming back from the Eiffel Tower to the hotel, and he helped us cross the street. He told us he worked at the auto races.

Then Dick guided us down several streets from the Montmartre metro to get to the Folles Theater at 8:30 p.m. The curtain went up just as we sat down with Dick, Henry, and about thirty women. Talk about luxurious costumes and shapely figures in the play. There were about four risque scenes, but nothing in particular happened when they were all dressed up. It was interesting.

60 Years Ago Today

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Monday, 16 June 1952:

At 7:15 a.m. we were up with baths to crawl around the streets to find a little breakfast and lunch for later. We opened a can and cut up a clover leaf piece of bread for sandwiches.

Prayer was at 9:15 a.m. and then we were off. We dashed down the street past the Bastille Opera, La Madeleine church, Place de la Concorde, guillotine where Marie Antoinette lost her head, obelisk with carvings, and Alexander Bridge, which was a most beautiful bridge. We continued on to the Paris Exposition building, automobile factory and then to the Hotel de Ville again.

Today we carried on to Versailles, which was the greatest monument of the 17th century. Versailles started as a little town and collection of palaces constructed under Louis XIV’s most illustrious 72 year reign. Louis XIV was a robust man with a full wig and his reign extended to nearly all of the 17th century. It was the longest reign for a monarch in Europe.

Louis XIV asserted centralized authority and called to Paris all the nobles in the provinces. He declared “state of France, that’s me.” Then he built the Versailles Palace for the 20,000 nobles that responded and didn’t honor those who didn’t come. A little village grew to service them. At the end of the 17th century there was one festival after another in Versailles.

In Versailles the Hall of Mirrors, where the peace treaties were signed was beautiful. Many peace treaties and the creation of the last German Empire by Otto von Bismarck were signed there. Also, the famous Versailles 1918 peace treaty was signed here with Kaiser Wilhelm, the last German emperor. Germans hated this peace treaty and called it the Edict of Versailles.

Marie Antoinette lived here in Versailles. There were empresses before Marie Antoinette and after her that stayed here as well. Some exceptions were when Versailles was too big or not very comfortable for some royalty, so they ended up creating their own smaller palaces.

Fashion styles were set here at Versailles. If a Duchess went away to a province for a month, she would come back out of style. Also, Louis XIV was bald and wore a wig. As a result everyone else wore wigs, so he wouldn’t feel self conscious.

During this period, Moliere wrote his comedies and Racine and Corneille were subsidized by Louis XIV to create Paris as a focal point. The 30 year war with Germany happened during this time, and the French influence on Germany, Italy, Britain, and Scandinavia was great. The French had prestige and influence, which spread all over Europe during the 17th century. In fact, the Versaille Palace was copied in Vienna and Berlin.

Versailles had immense buildings. The courtyard was covered with square cobblestones and an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. He died in 1715 after his 72 year reign. The buildings housed royalty from 1661-1700 and French noblemen from 1680-1789.

Next was the vestibule of the chapel with a staircase on the right that was wide enough for the ladies’ dresses. The vestibule with the statue, which represented glory and courage, was where the ladies waited. It was a golden age, when the 15-year-old grandson of Louis XIV married 17-year-old Marie Antoinette in Vienna.

The chapel had plush red velvet benches with organ murals on the ceiling that was painted on the canvas from the Gods. Then I spotted a painting of Marie Antoinette. Next was Louis XIV’s bedroom and then Apollo’s room where the tapestries took 2½ square inches a day in order to make them. Next was a room of wars and battle scenes. In the Hall of Mirrors some of the mirrors had been stolen. I discovered a 17 window mirror table where the treaty of 1919 had been signed and a nearby original clock that was still working.

Later the palace’s furniture was sold to finance the revolution. Some of the 1200 rooms had been demolished over time as well. At that majestic time over 10,000 people would have been living at Versailles. Then the king’s second bedroom and the bull’s eye room carpet, where the king dined once in awhile, was cut up and sold. Then we saw 45 chandeliers and went back to the Hall of Mirrors.

In Marie’s bedroom, there was a clock that played the minuet. There were doors hidden in the walls with a secret passageway. In the dining hall, Louis XVI allowed people to come in and watch him eat so they could see the palace. In the guard room there was the same picture as in the Louvre of Napoleon’s coronation. Eventually a student finished this painting. In the merchant’s room, there were murals showing the great battles of France. One mural represented the siege of Yorktown that portrayed George Washington.

For lunch we ate in the woods of Versailles, which was quite enchanting. The atmosphere made our lunch delicious. We wandered off to get some pictures while the rest of the group was getting ready to go. K, K and Margaret came by first so we started down the path to the grand canal. There were such beautiful gardens with sculpture work in the center of most of the pools and straight rows of trees that made a long archway. In addition, statues adorned each side of the grand canal.

We bartered for a taxi ride in a small horse drawn carriage that was hardly comparable to those used when Versailles was at its best. But it was fun nevertheless. It cost 125 francs for each person to ride to the Little Trianon, which was the queen’s summer palace. We wandered down the charming paths to the Queen’s Hamlet.

We met a group of French school children who were taking a tour of Versailles. Then we wandered around taking pictures until it was almost too late to get back in time. We cut across through the woods and ran most of the way back. The bus was just ready to pull out as we ran around the corner. Herr Rogers had waited as long as the mob would let him.

We stopped at the Eiffel Tower on the way back and took the funicular to the top. It was a beautiful view of Paris except for the fog and mist. This was the same kind of disappointment we suffered on the Empire State building, but we took a few pictures anyway. I’m coming back tomorrow if it was sunshiny.

Les Invalides was a complex of buildings containing museums and monuments relating to the military history of France. This state capitol building had a marble Renaissance style arch with the tombs of Napoleon; Joseph, his brother; Napoleon II, Napoleon’s only son; and Foch, WWI French General at Les Invalides as well. Napoleon had left instructions that he wanted to be buried on the banks of the Seine River. Unfortunately, Napoleon didn’t get his wish. There were other crypts in the Hilden church with battle flags hanging in the chapel in shreds. Then we headed home again.

It was the ballet that night and I dressed up by putting on heels and combing my hair. We arrived early enough at the ballet to watch the rest of the audience arrive. Regrettably, the usher insisted on a tip.

The audience all sort of had the look of ballet lovers. We tried to pick out those who might be ballet dancers themselves. The ballet was comprised of: first part had all black costumes, second part was the age of anxiety, third part was slightly on the comedy side, and the last part was the fire bug. The lead dancer was Moria Tullchief. The dancers had such beautiful costumes. Afterwards we caught the fastest metro in Paris home which was the same one we came in on.

Paris Is a ‘World’ of Rhythm, Balance, Harmony

Editor’s note: This is another letter written by Mrs. George H. Hansen of Provo on her impressions of a tour she is making with 36 college students through Europe.

Dear Friends:
Doing so much I scarcely have time to write about it.

Yesterday, being Sunday and Fathers Day, we decorated the two fathers in the group with a carnation in their coat lapel before going to an LDS Church. Thirty-six members added to the Paris congregation and really filled their meeting room. They were pleased. however, with the program which was presented in the evening by some of our students. In song, chorus and solo, as well as speeches, all in French, they did exceptionally well.

Visiting that famous museum of arts, the Louvre, was an outstanding experience. The museum covers some 43 acres and takes three hours of non-stop walking to go through it, so we saw only part in the five hours spent there. Looking at those ancient statues, pictures and all, hundreds of years old, our vision of past time became more real and of a greater distance back than ever before. There were hundreds of marble statues, massive, intricate and lifelike, which Napoleon brought to France from Greece. The French people appreciate these treasures and love Napoleon for his magnificent contributions to France. We also feel like saying thanks to the Greeks for their skill in sculpturing the Winged Victory of Smothrace, Aphrodite, Athena, Venus deMilo and the small head statues of Aristoltle, Plato and Socrates. Nor do we forget that hundreds of years have passed since Leonardo da Vinci painted Mona Lisa, whose face we see in many other pictures. Those scribblings of his are not so much different from yours and mine.

Love Scene
As we studiously gazed at the lovely Venus we noticed a chair exquisitely carved from marble for a nobleman in centuries past by the name of Bacchus. Coming toward the chair was a well-dressed American couple about 55 years of age. They decided to sit in this wide, cold old masterpiece. As they looked at the Goddess of Love, he put his arm around her and said “Darling, I love you.” She was visibly pleased. To sit in this chair was forbidden, but the guard was not around and those words on Fathers Day in the spot were most appropriate. This love scene was indeed more pleasing to us than those we have seen every day on the streets, in the parks, and sidewalk cafes, day or night, by the lingering lovers in Paris.

Even though some things in Paris seem out of place, because we are not used to them, this home town of the world expresses ideas to us from which we may profit. The touching humanities of natural everyday living, combined with strength, genius and culture, make Paris not, only a city, but also a world of rhythm, balance and harmony.

We noticed that the Parisians saunter in walking in comparison to our dash to get there. They say to us. “Why do you hurry? You are already in Paris.” Time is not as important to them as that which they get from living.

Let me not forget to tell you about the four exquisite paintings of Jean Paul Laurenz in the in the Pantheon, the coloring of which is most exquisite—having a central figure in black, with receding pastel shades. What an emotional uplift it gives one, to see the product of the ages in such grandeur.

Making a choice of things to tell you about seems like showing favoritism, but my American sense of time does force me to choose.

Along the Boulevard Saint Michel we came across an ancient lions den, now weather worn and almost covered with ivy. It is on our way to the University of Paris, popularly called the Sorbonne. Just the why of that, I have not yet learned, but there are so many things about France, its language and its people, that we must accept as they are, without reasoning why and without blame or censure.

If you saw the picture show An American in Paris you have an idea of the kind of streets we tramped (with tired feet) and you will remember those five-floor apartment windows which open to the street, where students stroll, brief case in hand, or sit in the sidewalk cafes, amused at the passing group of Americans.

Prof. As Escort
There was a courteous professor who escorted us through a few of those famous halls and class rooms, answered our enthusiastic questions about entrance requirements and enrollment to the university. What a thrill it would be to attend this market of ideas! He led us to the chapel which is remarkable for the tomb of its founder, Cardinal de Richelieu, over which is sculptured a masterpiece in Carrara marble.

They say that it is impossible to get lost in the Metro—the underground railway system. Indeed, it does seem less complicated than the New York subway. The high arched ceilings of white tile are clean. Moscow, Russia, has an underground system of the same design and name, so they say. One subway station in Paris is dedicated to Franklin D. Roosevelt. His name in large gold block letters is on the wall.

Place de L’Opera allows plenty of room to stand back to view that overwhelming impressive building, which is oblong in shape and topped with a huge dome.

It is richly ornamented without as well as within, and is in constant repair and upkeep. Inside, the astonishing lustre of polished bronze, crystal and marble, with crimson upholstery held us spell bound. Rigeletto was the program and we had first balcony seats, thanks to our busy tour directors.

Notre Dame Cathedral on the bank of the Seine River is one of the seven wonders of the world. It is 800 years old and it is not at all hard to believe that it was 200 years in the making.

A day in Versailles was overpowering with its splendor, elaborate richness and beautiful extensive gardens. Those old gray decorated walls with such splendor inside that it is hard to believe that those Kings of France, Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI, were such jealous creatures. They seemed to lack nothing in riches and possessions.

Tomorrow we leave Paris for Southern France. You’ll hear more from us later,
Mrs. George H. Hansen.

60 Years Ago Today

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Sunday, 15 June 1952:

Since we stopped to get carnations for Dr. Rogers and Dr. Watkins for Father’s Day, we were late for Sunday School at the French Branch. At the meeting a convert was confirmed and we sang Prenez Courage. Later an English class was held where President Woolf welcomed us and told us a little about the history of the middle area of France, Joan of Arc, and Napoleon. President and Mrs. Taylor were introduced and released from another mission.

After church we gabbed with President Woolf, members, and some missionaries, Davis Bitton, Louis Cardon, and Harriet Robinson. President Woolf recommended a little restaurant Caveau and it turned out to be our best meal since arriving in Paree. The meal consisted of hors d’oeuvres, ham, spinach, and strawberries for 475 francs which included the tip.

An English lady gave us a little assistance in ordering because the waiters did not speak English, and we had some difficulty reading the menu. She and her companions, another English lady and a Frenchman, were interesting to talk to. We told them our story and they informed us of theirs.
At 2:30 p.m. we arrived at the Louvre and bumped into part of the mob with Herr Watkins and Rogers. We paid 50 francs to take our cameras inside. Then I snapped two pictures of the original Venus de Milo. And I examined busts of Roman Emperors, fragments from the Temple of Zeus, paintings, and frescoes. There was an original winged victory statue La Victoire de Samothrace, statue of Botticelli—a painter of the Florntine school, Fra Angelico, famous early Florentine painter, and painting of Jesus of Nazareth in The Crucifixion. Titien, 1488-1576, who was one of the most successful painters who ever lived, displayed a painting. The Veronese Wedding of Cana had 120 figures with barely two figures that were not larger than life. Other paintings included Mary Magdalene washing Christ’s feet in the house of Simon, statue Jupiter of Versailles and painting Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. We needed to spend more time in the Louvre. There was so much to see, and it was all so magnificent.

We started back to the hotel, but about faced into the Regent Hotel. Instead of going back to our hotel, we wrote letters in the beautiful Regent Hotel lounge until church. After writing we ate lunch and stopped for delicious French pastries at the shop near the church. And we bought bread for sandwiches for tomorrow.

At church we joined in on choir practice and gave most of the church program which included: a talk by Dr. Rogers, a quartet in French by Kay, Marilyn, Pat and Alicia, a talk by Dr. Watkins, a song by Mrs. Rogers in French, some chorus songs You’ll Never Walk Alone and America, and a farewell speech by Bob Mercer. Afterwards we chatted with the members of the church.

Then Carol, Alene, Irene, Hermine, Joyce and I ventured off to the Eiffel Tower. We viewed the outside of the Palais de Chaillot while the fountains were lit up. Alene and I went to the first story of the tower and met Puerto Ricans, Zachary Scott and his friends, just coming down. The Arc de Triomphe and Sacre Coeur were all lit up as well. The Seine River and lights of the city were just beautiful. We walked on the lawn and took the metro back to the hotel through the Franklin D. Roosevelt station again.