Tag Archives: Brigham Young University

60 Years Ago Today

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Friday, 18 July 1952:

At 7:30 a.m. I was up and dashed out to the hotel next door to call Carmen again. The operator rattled on so fast that I couldn’t understand her. Finally, I decided there was no answer and I went in the rest room for a few minutes. I accidentally left my coin purse and address book, so I waited for the next lady to come out of a bathroom stall. Everything looked like it was in order.

This time a little girl helped me with my call and I was successful! Carmen was really excited as we made plans to meet at Bahnhof. It was 1.20 francs for my call. I opened my purse to get it out and discovered my 5 francs were gone. The pretty shrewd lady in the rest room after me, took my money. I noticed her in the dining room, followed her out and accused her of taking my money. I couldn’t speak German well enough to argue with her, so I chalked it up to bad experience. It was my first loss in Switzerland. I can’t wait to get to the Lucerne part of the trip.

When we drove through Robiata, the Swisse were making hay with a rake, by hand no less. There were machines in some parts of Switzerland for raking hay however. We arrived in Lucerne a little after 10:30 a.m. We headed straight up to Bahnhof. But I couldn’t see Carmen and her companions. So as Andre parked the bus I went searching for them. They found us first.

Later they told me how they had discovered the bus right after we had left it. It was quite a reunion. Carmen had brought her companion, Maxine Lamborn. They guided me on a short tour of the city. Sights included the glacier gardens, big lion monument, glacial mills, topographical map, and house of mirrors. Lucerne and surroundings were typical Swisse mountains. There was an artificial glacial pot to show how the geological process worked. At the end of the tour we reached a tower for a view of the stunning city.

I hurried back to the bus because I thought I’d be late again. Thankfully everybody else was late this time. Then we were off for a drive past the towers. And back to our three hotels: Rutli first up, then mine, and the Wieldermann.

My hotel had been a private residence at one time. The elevator had a door on one side to get in and one on the other side to get out. The lady behind the desk said she would appreciate it if we would have our meals there. It was a nice little room with only a slightly thicker comforter, kinda like a mattress.

I dumped my stuff and took off with Carmen and Maxine to find some chow. We traveled across a bridge to the Kresses which was commonly called A.G. The menu of the day was done, so we crossed back over the bridge to a cute little terraced café along the other side of the river.
Then we had a delicious one franc dish with a wine sauce. It was kind of like a meat pie only the pastry was much lighter and crispier. The dinner ended up with a delicious pineapple pie pastry. We treated the missionaries. Herr Rogers said he would take care of paying for the missionaries, but he hasn’t so far, 6 francs worth now.

Down below the café we ran across a little change dealy where the lady said she’d give us 470 francs for $10. What a deal! We could hardly believe our ears. Everybody decided to change their money at that kind of rate. Even the missionaries decided they had really been missing the boat by going to American Express to exchange their money. But guess what? Our bubble broke before we all got away though. Apparently a man came in and gave the lady a clue about the really good rate she was giving. When I wandered back in to see what was holding up the other kids, she decided she had made a mistake. She must be kind of new at this money changing job. She gave 427 francs instead of 470 francs per dollar.

We crawled around looking for a bike rental place, so we could go bike riding with the missionaries. We found a good cheap place, but they only had one bike. By that time we had lost everyone except Alice and Betty. Ione, Cherie, and Bev had gone back to the hotel to put some clothes on, because a nun had called them dirty. It was because they were wearing shorts. Betty and Alice had decided not to go either, so yours truly paid two francs for the lone bike till 6 p.m. I took off with the missionaries.

We rode out till we came to the place where the lady lived who the missionaries were going to visit. I waited for a few minutes outside before going bike riding. The missionaries soon returned, because she wasn’t there. However, before we got away, she turned up and gave us a hearty welcome. This time I was invited in the flat on the second floor into the living room. It was very similar to our living room at home. The flat was quite well furnished. The lady was about 28 years old, nice looking, and the mother of eight cute little kiddies. The only flaw in her ointment was a drinking and unfaithful husband. This I found out from the missionaries before we went in to talk to her.

She began talking as soon as we met her and didn’t stop except to take a breath until we left. I gleaned several bits of information from the conversation. She was quite nervous and she was afraid her husband was driving her crazy. She was going to a rest home for two weeks. We met four of the children: Bruno who was a little blond boy who looked like a girl with curls and all, Erika who was one of the oldest girls with straight bangs and hair like I wore in the first grade, Hansie and Joseph who were two darling little boys who looked a lot like twins but weren’t.

After talking for a little while we went in and helped with her washing which a hired man was doing. We rang clothes out by hand and took them up on the roof to hang out. Only we rinsed them out again in three long tubs and then hung them up. It was a beautiful view from the roof. I ran down to get my camera and returned to the wrong flat. A surprised man greeted me when I opened the door. After correcting my mistake I took a picture from the roof of hay making, mountains, and roof tops.

After we had finished with the wash, we returned to the living room for some delicious apple juice and pastries. Then we bicycled through the streets of Lucerne signaling just like the cars did. I passed some of the group and then stopped to capture a shot of the cathedral from the middle of the street. I cycled up a low hill to the missionaries’ abode then and down again flying low.

We entered into the missionaries’ apartment building from a garage. Upstairs there was a one room flat with feather comforters. The missionaries had access to a bathroom down the hall. I met the missionaries’ grey haired and witty landlady and her dark haired and Italian looking granddaughter. I took their picture on the little balcony. Then I had prayer with the missionaries, and left to go back to the locale two blocks from the hotel to take the bike back. Missionaries had an appointment for 6 p.m., so I left them and went back to the hotel.

After returning my bike no one was home so I found my way to the A.G. There was a bunch of kids just finishing. The menu of the day was done so I had a ham sandwich, gelatin salad and ice cream. I had to take part of it with me to eat, because they were closing. Gee! The place really was a lot like Kresses or ZCMI’s snack bar where you stand up to eat. I got to look at the food and decide what I wanted.

I window shopped on the way back to the hotel. Then the kids got together to go practice at the locale. The missionaries met us just as we were going to the church, since their cottage meeting had fallen through. We all had a fun time practicing. Some little boys came in and sang for us. They really enjoyed singing and yodeling and we enjoyed talking to them.

Afterwards we crossed the river over the bridge of death to an ice cream spot on the opposite bank. The waitress had an accident and dumped a whole tray of pastries on the floor. We all had delicious ice cream sundaes. I bid adieu till morning and hit the hay.

60 Years Ago Today

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Thursday, 17 July 1952:

I crawled out of bed in time to finish packing and get my bag down by 8:30 a.m. There was quite a hubbub this morning. Many of the kids were complaining about the way our first class hotel personnel had treated us poor BYU students. They ignored some of the kids when a lady with fur and money came up to the desk. We didn’t tip porters because we understood it was included, and it was. Afton and Dora had paid 5 francs each for what was supposed to have been a special breakfast for 2.60 francs. Some of the kids were also overcharged for stamps and given low exchange rates on checks.

Herr Watkins and Rogers made formal complaints to the manager. I guess we were better off at second and third class hotels. Of course, when everyone ran around in peddle pushers, it was no wonder.

We stopped at American Express for our last mail call. I guess we had worn out our welcome here, too. The clerk refused to check again for mail, because she said she had already checked. Finally, we got everybody back in the bus. Several kids realized that they had missed seeing the flower clock. So we waited for them to quickly see the clock as well.

Then we were off to Brienz on a road along the shores of Lake Brienz. We stopped at a wood carving center where I talked to an English couple by the lakeside instead of shopping. The English couple had 25 sterling pounds for a vacation to Europe. They tried to wrangle extra money if possible from every situation. The fellow jokingly suggested we drop a card to Queen Elizabeth. Also they suggested while in England that we try to see one of the royal children in the morning at St. James Park. They were what I would call typically English and it was very interesting to talk to them. I gathered that even though they were restricted on their traveling that they always found some way to get around the restrictions.

Back on the bus again we had a jolly time examining our loot. Herr Watkins and Ione both had the most unique ugly little wooden nutcrackers. Today we crossed the Susten Pass. We stopped for lunch in the midst of nature’s finery with beautiful pictures on all four sides. Mrs. Hansen was sketching a waterfall with a mountain slope in the background with little cottages and meadows far up on the side of it. As we departed again two kids on bikes hooked rides on the tail end of our bus as we went over the pass. Henry passed carrots and cookies back to the boys through the windows.

The road was full of hairpin turns to the top of the pass. Looking down we saw the road below with cyclists and cars interspersed with each other. Five waterfalls trickled down one mountain wall with clouds hovering around the peaks. We stopped at the top of the mountain to stretch and rest. After talking to the boys who had hooked a ride behind us, we said goodbye.

As mountain sheep grazed on the hills nearby there was a big patch of snow by the bus. Alicia took a picture of me in my shorts in the middle of the snow. Then we boarded the bus and headed down the hill. The boys on their bikes passed us as we had the same hairpin turns that we experienced coming up. I decided to take a nap.

We traveled to Altdorf, Switzerland next. It was where William Tell, a folk hero of Switzerland in the 15th century, had his stomping grounds. I snapped a picture of the William Tell Monument while there. But I was more interested in the rest rooms than anything else. No luck.

Eventually we stopped at a little shop for cheese, bread, pastry, bananas, and oranges for supper tonight. I had too many little packages and got sugar from the pastries all over the bus.

Now on to Fleulen, a resort town by the seashore, where there wasn’t enough room in our original hotel. I followed Hermine up and discovered that there was a mistake and we were actually staying in three hotels.A bunch of us stayed in the Tell Hotel, while six of us had two rooms in the Stermen Hotel. The balance settled in Rosedeal way down the street. This particular hotel had no running water in the rooms, just pitchers.

Before dinner those of us staying at the Stermen Hotel snuck into the bathroom at the top of the stairs one by one and removed the layers of dirt on each one of us. There were piles of clean linen by the tub. In short we weren’t so sure we were supposed to be taking baths in there so we were kinda jittery, so to speak.

The superb dinner at the Tell Hotel had tons to eat for a small fee. After dinner, there was nothing going on so I decided to get busy writing letters and getting caught up in my diary. There were feather ticks for comforters again tonight with the same sloped Swisse beds. Some of the kids removed the extra padding on the bed.

Herr Watkins, Dick, and some of the kids jumped in the lake and reported it was ice cold. After dinner we went over to Tell Hotel to call Carmen. Two girls and a bellboy were nice and helpful. Finally, we found a phone number, but Carmen wasn’t home. The landlady reported she would return at midnight.

60 Years Ago Today

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Wednesday, 16 July 1952:

At 8 a.m. we jaunted down to the train station for the Jungfrau excursion today. It was kind of cloudy with the sun shining now and then on the lower slopes. Houses dotted the slopes with a clear blue swimming pool below. We changed trains at Grindelwald.

Cows wandering around on the slopes were pastured out here to save feed for the winter. The train had to stop so the train workers could remove one cow from the track. The clouds broke and we got a glimpse of the mountain peak. Herr Watkins said “that’s just a foothill.”

As the day wore on we changed trains again. This train was kind of plush and had glass in the windows, our last train didn’t. The temperature had gone down quite a bit particularly when we traveled in a long tunnel. It took five minutes to get out and look at the mountains again. It was like an ice box at the first stop and it took one more stop to be able to look through a window at the mountains.

Clouds hung around the peaks as we traveled through the tunnel to the top. When the train stopped and the conductor said this was the stop, we were still in the tunnel or refrigerator. Take your choice.

As we arrived we found tunnels going every which way. We took a tunnel and were reminded of the catacombs. Five minutes later we came to the ticket coin machine and elevator to the observatory so we were told.

With everyone’s insides growling, we weren’t much interested in that particular phase of Jungfrau Yoke at that moment. So we back tracked past the train into a lobby affair with a little café on one side. There were rest rooms along with a porch that gave a beautiful view of the mountains.

Afterwards we bounded up a few stairs and found a big dining room with a view. We joined the others who were supplementing lunch with a hot bowl of soup. All tourists like ourselves enjoyed the beauties of nature in Switzerland.

With our stomachs comfortably full again, we were ready to enjoy the wonders of the Alps with greater enthusiasm. Several flights of stairs up at the first stop was the Ice Palace where we paid one franc to experience it. It was quite an experience being inside a block of ice. There was a hallway as a tunnel through the ice that went past a car sculptured in ice.

Then I caught sight of a little ice carved bar with booths, tables, and benches. It included an ice clock, piano, bar, skating rink with Roman arches, and square pillars. A thermometer inside stated that it was 10 degrees below 0 centigrade. Outside again we climbed up the snow bank and out to the flag pole. A little man gave bobsled rides for one franc, so I took one. It was quite a thrill, but the ride wasn’t long.

From where the ride stopped we could see the Jaeger Mountain to the left of Monch. We helped the little man push the sled back up. Some of the kids were sun bathing on a big rock and I climbed up just in time to get in the pictures Herr Watkins was taking.

What a luxury this was lying on a rock in the sun surrounded by and gazing at these majestic peaks. The Jungfrau was said to have less snow this time of year than ever before. Eager for an even better view of our magnificent environment, Mrs. Hansen, Carmela, and I decided to go back to the spot of our first sojourn.

We hurried through the tunnels and individually put our little one franc coin in the box in order to get a ticket for the lift to the observatory tower. We were presently gazing down from the highest spot of comfort of the Jungfrau Yoke. We moved first from one side to another. We had a most splendid view of the big glaciers and white clouds that were like feather beds below us making a fluffy blanket over the valley and blue skies overhead. At one spot the blanket thinned out ever so little to give us a hazy view of a small part of the valley below.

Henry came up to the observatory soon after we did and went partially wild about all the radical apparatuses around the tower. Everyone dashed back down to go elsewhere. I hated to leave so I didn’t.

I ended up talking to an interesting fellow from Pennsylvania. He wanted very much to have a picture of Jungfrau, so I took a picture and promised to send it on to him. Time was growing short so I tried to get on the next elevator. Unfortunately, too many others had the same idea as me. As I waited for the next elevator ir seemed interminably long time arriving. By the time I finally reached the bottom there was about one minute to spare before our train was due to pull out.
I ran madly through the catacomb tunnel leaving the Philadelphia man in my dust. As I rounded the corner I saw the train which I hoped to be on. I had only twenty seconds left. I looked around for familiar faces and found the kids. Herr Rogers was leaning anxiously from the window. As I crawled breathlessly into the train without any wind left to apologize with, I realized my late coming had caused some consternation. Herr and others all thought for sure, I would be left behind. I jumped on just as the train had pulled ahead to go.

Then I was duly chastised and kidded. Herr Rogers had been trying to explain to the conductor that one of our group was missing and would he please let me come on the next train. It would have been rather expensive for me if I had had to pay for a one way ticket back.

16 July 1952 – Interlaken, Swizterland:

Dear Folks, we are on our way down from the top of the highest railroad in Europe which took us to the Jangrau Yoke way up high in the midst of high peaks. It was high enough to be above the clouds. It was so beautiful we kind of hated to come back and I almost missed the slow moving train. Right now we were going down through the middle of the mountain. Switzerland has been quite restful after Italy.

However, I think I liked Italy the best. There were so many things to see and we almost ran ourselves ragged. Switzerland is kind of restful with lots of beautiful scenery, good food, nice hotels, swimming, etc. Like Herr Watkins commented when we came into Switzerland, “The academic part of the trip is ending for awhile and the aesthetic was beginning.”

Europe has really been different from what people have given me to expect. We could have gotten along fine without bringing three months supply of everything. It’s really quite civilized over here. You can get most anything you need. The people can’t afford to buy everything that’s available, but they were glad to have tourists buy it.

Italy has been the cheapest country we have been in so far and the people were very friendly. We visited the Pope in Rome. He shook hands with all of us, and we presented him with a triple combination for the Vatican Library. I loved Rome, Florence, Capri, Sorrento, Venice and Milan. I want to go back and spend months there. We have had running water in our rooms everyplace except one. We seem to be able to find baths every twice in a while, so we really haven’t had to go around real dirty.

Tonight we were going to Monte Carlo ballet. In Bern we saw Europe’s best circus and believe me it was good. We were certainly lucky so far, no sickness or serious trouble of any kind. There was only one thing about Switzerland that disappointed me and that was their grey rivers. The rivers were filled with limestone or something and they were a kind of a milky grey instead of a sparkling clear blue. We had to change trains twice going up today.

As things settled down there was some beautiful scenery coming back down under the clouds. The sunshine was all gone so I tried to write a letter to the folks on the way down. There were three changes of trains and we always seemed to get a reserved car.

Now back to the hotel and out to get food for tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s lunch. The prices at the hotel were too expensive for us so I purchased cheese, bread, and fruit. It cost one franc for each of them. Then I bought milk and cheese for dinner and smuggled it into hotel.

Afterwards, I cleaned up and dressed for the ballet. The ballet was in Kursaal but in the theatre part of it. Our six franc seats weren’t the best, but we could see pretty well. The hall, where we had been the night before, was decorated with candles in bottles and lanterns. In the ballet the first number was Swan Lake. There were intermissions between the numbers so the gambling tables had a break. It gave us the chance to listen to A Night in Vienna music as well. Romeo and Juliet was the next ballet. All the numbers were good. The Monte Carlo Ballet had just finished touring the United States.

I saw a fellow from Jungfrau whose picture I had taken. I said hello to him on the way out and talked about how I almost missed my train. I waited for the city clock to chime on our way home after looking in the bar to see what it was like. It was enchanting as all the lights went out as the clock got a good start for Thursday.

60 Years Ago Today

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Tuesday, 15 July 1952:

In the morning it was my turn to pray. Afterwards I enjoyed a huge continental breakfast. Then our group walked to meet Elder Hill from Provo, Elder Alder from Logan, and Elder Zern from Malad. The missionaries were being released and could take us on a tour. We walked through the market to the Capitol building, across the bridge, and to the Art Museum Monument that commemorated the founding of International Telegraphic Union. It was initiated by France in Paris in 1865. A sculpture by Giuseppe Romagnoli in 1915 had a lady sitting in the middle with her hands out to people on both sides. I found every county’s name except for the United States. From the bridge I snapped pictures of Berne. I took two more pictures of the Cathedral Spire.

An automobile dealer used me as a model for his brand new black 30,000 franc car. He said he would send me a picture. Then I went back across the bridge to the Capitol Building to meet the group, but somehow I missed them. Then I went up to the second story of the bank and took pictures of the market from the window. I joined a 9:30 a.m. tour of the Capitol. Our guide told us everything in four languages. He was a real jewel.

At the Federal Council Senate there was a wrought iron chandelier and mural of an open air canton meeting. A canton represents member states of the federal state of Switzerland. One member from each of seven cantons acts as a rotating chairman. There was one member for every 24,000 inhabitants. All positions were by election every four years. This form of government was originated in 1848 and each representative speaks in the mother tongue. We continued through the committee rooms and a national council hall. A mural of the cradle of Switzerland had an angel of peace sitting in the cloud on the lake.

Then we progressed to the reception room with a mural on the ceiling. This most important mural was in remembrance of the Red Cross. It featured ladies in black uniforms and nurses. We finished and were off to the meat market on the way to a Münster church. It had a Gothic ceiling and was almost our first visit to a non Catholic Church. The beautifully decorated church had diamond and rectangular shapes of wood with a sculpture at each intersection and black scroll designs in between. There were beautiful stained glass windows. For 20 centimes we climbed the bell tower on a circular staircase.

There was such a wonderful, beautiful view of Berne and could you believe it? I was out of film. Berne had many roofed sidewalks. I spotted the Opera House and a famous tavern next to it from the tower. Back to the hotel for lunch, the missionaries ate with us. It was a delicious meal with hors d’oeuvres, pork, potatoes, salad, spinach and custard.

Off for Interlaken at 12:30p.m. There was a beautiful valley below with patchwork fields. And it started to rain as we hit Lakeshore Road, Bunderstadt Federal City. A truck and our bus had a tight squeeze on the road. Inside Interlaken Park there were pretty white seats with hedges around the park on three sides.

We found Hotel Victoria Jungren. Gee! It was a wonder we didn’t miss it, because it was almost a block long. We drove nonchalantly by as our main interest at the moment was American Express. Yours truly rated only one letter from Lucy. Guess I better be thankful for my blessings and get busy and write some letters myself.

We checked at the casino next door for information on entertainment. There was a concert tonight and a ballet tomorrow. It started to rain as we walked next door to the Hotel Victoria. American Express really outdid themselves on some of our hotels. They really went hog wild on this hotel, first class no less and really nice. There were pretty silk comforters on our beds with soap and tissue in the bathrooms.

Then we went out to pick up ballet tickets for tomorrow night, cased the town, and got some food. I have got to weigh myself , because I feel I have gained five pounds! Drats! As we shopped Alice found a little watch for Everett as the rest of us examined the trinkets. Some shopkeepers weren’t so nice and polite to us as they were cracked up to be. Guess they had had a hard day.

We had a banquet in our room, and then we cleaned up for the concert at the casino. There were beautiful grounds at the casino that had a famous flower clock. It cost 1.80 francs to get in and 1.50 francs for a delicious glace with whipped cream. I enjoyed the blonde soprano’s voice. The orchestra took 15 minute intermission between each set. I spied the roulette table at one intermission since it was interesting to watch other people gambling, especially one little girl. The concert was good and played several familiar numbers. Estrelita, one of the numbers, was possibly from Snow White.

Just as we were ready to go back to the hotel, it decided to rain again. We waited a little and then draped ourselves with what we could and took off as the flower clock struck 11:00 p.m.

60 Years Ago Today

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Monday, 14 July 1952:

Helen was up in order to go swimming. I was going to go as well, but that was last night, not in the morning! I actually crawled out of bed at 10 a.m. and tried to finish the letter I was writing to Aunt Caroline and Anna.

Again we were off but this time to Berne via Neuchatel. I was waiting on the corner for the bus when it came rolling up with Florence and Alice. They had helped Andre clean the seats on our bus most beautifully. We were ready to go except for a little bottleneck, Bev had lost one of two engagement rings. Rumor had it that she had already lost one of her rings and had to replace the other one earlier. Nuf said it was just fodder for gossipers.

After awhile we stopped at Neuchatel for lunch. We tried to see a museum and some mechanical dolls. The buildings were closed on Mondays. Some of the Swisse people, especially through here, look like the people in Utah and Idaho. We just hit the German speaking section of Switzerland. I could tell by the signs. Next Sunday we were scheduled to give a program in German. Now back to the scenery where there was a covered bridge on the way to Berne. Then we drove through a beautiful forest.

Arriving in Berne, the capital of Switzerland, was as Swisse German as Geneva and Lauanne had been Swisse French. The clock tower had a bear symbol just below the clock. We found Hotel Poste et France right in the center of a shop with a desk on the second floor again. This time we nosed around the shops till our rooms were assigned.

After awhile we received a key with a great big ball attached so we wouldn’t walk off with it. My darling room 26 had great huge pillows for a comforter, just like last night. There was an extra settee lounge that was big enough for an extra bed with two big pillows per usual. The window flower box had petunias in it.

Later I nosed around the shops and got my money changed at a big bank across from the church. I went back to window shopping before the bus left for sightseeing at 5 p.m. Dickie boy came in with a huge bar of Swisse chocolate which he handed to me. All this fuss because I had fixed his pants. Gee, why how nice can you be?

Then we waited for two missionaries who were coming to be our guides. It was Everett Fisher from Rexburg and MacKay from Salt Lake. They came and we were off to the Swisse Capitol building which had symmetrical flower beds. Next was a 13th century Gothic Münster Cathedral which was Catholic at one time but now was Protestant. Both of these buildings were closed on Mondays as well. We caught a glimpse of bear pits where bears would fight. Before dinner we observed a gold clock with little men on the top hitting the bell on the hour. Finally back to the hotel for dinner.

Traveler Gives Vivid Picture of Swiss Alps, Chillon Castle

Letter to the Editor

Dear Friends;
Over the Swiss Alps through the Simpton Pass is a thrill and exciting and adventurous for the eyes watching through the windows of our bus as it slowly crawls up the paved slopes. The towering rocky mountains decorated with snow, the lower slopes draped in green and gold of farm patchwork design, and the foamy pale green stream below are objects of amazement.

Switzerland is merely a postage stamp size of a country on the map, but the cragged peaks and beautiful scenery are rated high with the travelers. Some go to Switzerland for health and rest, others for mountain climbing and skiing. It is always clean, comfortable and peaceful. Here the children are put to work early to learn that “life is earnest,” consequently we find a thoroughness and love of quality in their skills and trades. They are deeply united in their love of the soil and we see the whole family out pitching hay or bundling grain.

Natural Protection
These mountain passes are somewhat of a natural protection to the country, but they are also well fortified with explosives. In so many places, we see the camouflaged mines and artillery. It would be absolute suicide for an enemy to attempt to enter. The Swiss mean to maintain their political and economic independence.

But we suddenly come to a halt. Why? The road has been washed out by mountain rains and heavy water. Taking the necessary baggage under our arms, on shoulders and head, we walk through the rural country along narrow footpaths, to the next town, Brige, so we can ride on the train up the mountain to Zermatt.

Zermatt is a beautiful little town at the base of the Matterhorn, where mountain climbers from the world over assemble, clad in rugged clothes, to accept the challenges of the mountain.
Hear Bells

Early in the morning we hear the silver tinkle of small bells hung on the necks of goats being taken to their mountain pasture. I learn that, all summer Herman and Rudolph Truffler take care of the goat heard. As the patter along the main cobblestone street, other neighbors bring their two or three goats to join the main herd, of about 25 goats. We are reminded so much of the story of Heidi, especially when Little Sonja comes running out of the house to greet the goats talking to them, patting their heads and lovingly caressing them.

The chair lift, which carries passengers, two by two, up the steep mountain, or the real funicular, cog by cog, railway up to Gornegrat, offers a breath taking panorama of the wedge shaped towering Matterhorn and its neighboring peaks. With the silvery streams, hurrying on their way to the river below. Riffulhaus at the top must have been a great challenge to buildings of houses and trails. But homes on hills are most usual here and so picturesque.

Quiet Day
Sunday was rather quiet at United Nations offices in Geneva. Perhaps the day lent a sanctity to our impressions of the place, as we were escorted through the buildings and grounds. The beautiful peacock resting peacefully in the doorway was a brilliant surprise which almost startled us. He was easily shooed into the sunshine to have his picture taken by the amateur photographers.

We did stir up a bit of mental activity, however when we visited the University of Geneva, where Jean Jacques Rousseau taught his stimulating philosophy. By the side of the first edition of his “Social Contract” was a letter from Leon Tolstoy, written in longhand in March of 1905, in which he accepts the invitation to become a member of the Rousseau Society, expressing sentiment of the elevation of the soul, saying that since he was 15 years old Rousseau has been master of his life with a beneficial influence.

Origin of Red Cross
Did you know that the International Red Cross was first organized here in Geneva? The Red Cross emblem is the revers of the Swiss national flag, which is a white cross on a red background. The white cross of Christian mercy on the battlefield of red.

“Eternal spirit of the chainless mind;
Brightest in dungeons, Liberty thou art,
For there thy habitations is the hear.”

The castle of Chillon reflects much tragic and revolutionary history. Both Rousseau and Byron have contributed to the glory of this old feudal castle. In the beautiful aqua blue of the water of Lake Geneva is reflected the warm color of the turrets and towers, which hold such a gruesome story (as well as romantic) of so many who have “appealed to God from the tyranny of man,”

Carves Name
Byron carved his name in the stone pillar to which the prisoner Bonivard was chained. In imagination we saw him lying on the cold stone bed, or being cast into the pit where only a slight gleam of light entered, twice renewed from the narrow slit in the thick stone wall or again we saw him hanging from the scaffold with weights on his feet. Foot marks in the stone below have been worn by the dropping prisoners.

Yet, from all the torture stories that these moats and walls tell, there comes the spirit of the harmonies of nature and in all fairness to this “chainless mind.” we must look to the future with Jacquest Barzun of this country of solid minds, when he says “the future may revive jollier times where in the life of the mind again seems desirable and needs no apology.”

—Afton A. Hansen

Just before dinner we dashed over to get tickets for Knie Circus before 7 p.m. People were lined up and we tried to find out about the tickets that started to sell at 7 p.m. “Parle Anglais? Parle Anglais?” Finally a man tried to help us. We decided on cheaper tickets for 2.75 francs. It was 7:15 p.m. by the time we got back from dinner which was delicious. It was my fifth time for french fries. My main dish was rare beefsteak. Some of the other kids said the tickets had sold out for the circus and they couldn’t get in.

Our seats were on the top row which was a good deal for the cheaper seats. We weren’t sure if we were going to have any seats at first, but the usher made the people move over. First act was comprised of white bears and black bears drinking milk out of bottles. The orchestra was playing “trink, trink” with the bears climbing up and sliding down a slippery slide. Then some of them went down the slide backwards. Then the clowns, four midgets and a big guy filled in while the scenery was changed.

The second act included animals with a big horse, little horse and three dogs. The dogs jumped from one horse to the other and finally all the dogs ended up together on one horse. In between the clowns appeared again.

The third act had two men that worked on the trapeze. A little boy, girl, big boy and two men took turns as well on the trapeze. A girl, who seemed to be the star of the show, did 50 somersaults without stopping. There were chorus girls with tails, a ballet dancer, and horse costumes.

The fourth act involved two men and a girl that performed the ballet, Slaughter on 10th Avenue, which turned into a comedy. They had a volunteer “plant” from the audience.

The next act showcased a juggler to Sentimental Journey with three balls. Then he juggled three hats and three books. In the sixth act the performers were five seals and a blonde trainer. The seals used balls and clapped their fins. The act also included tightrope walkers, old fashioned bicycles, red headed clowns, and three elephants. The elephants sat down and danced on the stools to the song My Foolish Heart. A girl rode on an elephant’s trunk. Another elephant climbed the stairs and walked the plank.

Leading into the seventh act was an acrobatic spring board act with two men, two boys, and three girls in a family affair. They sprang into chairs with three layers on top of each other.

The eighth act was a racing act with four horses, four Shetland ponies, four drivers in carts, two dogs and eight horses. Amazingly there was an acrobatic horse. A comedian act in German with a jack in box was the ninth act where I missed a few of the punch lines. The tenth act had six horses and six red-coated riders where the horses danced to music. The eleventh act included a little boy juggler. He was a wonder boy. He did just about every kind of acrobatic stunt imaginable.

At intermission a lady asked me in Swisse-French where the ice cream was. Of course, she asked the wrong person for information, but the right person for my love of ice cream. Then the last part of the show included an acrobatic water act with a fellow and girl covered with glitter, a blonde in boat, a big snake act that wound around her, a chorus with little snakes, clowns with one huge snake, a camera man pushed in the water, an alligator act and a fountain dealy. Hoola! What a finale! Finally back to the hotel to go to bed.

60 Years Ago Today

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Sunday, 13 July 1952:

I had breakfast in bed, an orange and apple, and finished altering Dick’s pants. I needed to pack up I guess. I really needed a little overnight case. Then when suitcases didn’t come off the bus, I would have a change of clothes. I noticed I had my souvenir of Assisi, but had lost the one I had bought via Herr Watkins.

Now off to Sunday School. Missionaries and most of the members had gone to Paris for a mission conference with President McKay last night. I almost went myself, but we were giving the program today. There were half a dozen adult members and about the same number of cute clean little children. We had a wonderful Sunday School. The little kids went to a separate class during our special program, but I don’t think they wanted to.

After Sunday School, we stopped by the restaurant from the night before. About 20 of us ordered from the souvenir menu that I had procured yesterday. The other kids had made their own lunches. Then we hurried back to the hotel to pack up and check out.

There was confusion on the bus. Where were we going to sit today? Two seats behind yesterday or four? Confusion was caused by the fact that yesterday we just sat where it was convenient on the ride to the boat from the hotel. Boy, 36 people sure got confused when their signals were crossed.

Back to sightseeing in Geneva and our discoveries from the day before at the Monument de la Reformation and University of Geneva. In Jean-Jacques Rousseau’s room, a major Genevan philosopher, writer, and composer of the 18th century, there were pictures and busts of him. Also there were original manuscripts and prints of his writings like Emile.

Then off to the United Nations. Joyce tripped on the last step and fell as she left the bus. People nearby were kind and took her someplace close by to help her wash up and rest. We met the Armenian fellow from Palestine that we talked to at the concert last night. He was with his mother and some other friends to whom he introduced us. His mother lived in Geneva and he was studying at a Bible school in Louder, England. He was quite amazed to find that all 36 of us were Mormons with 32 women and 4 men. “A likely ratio,” he said. We introduced him to Herr Watkins and some of the other kids. Then we wandered around taking pictures and then headed back to the bus and off for Lausanne.

Today we saw the shore line from the road while yesterday we saw it from the boat. It gave a different perspective of the lake with mountains as a background. Alice commented that it looked like Minnesota along the Great Lakes. I wanted to take pictures of grain fields standing in shocks to show Daddy. Just then Mrs. McDonald made an announcement about jam and cleaning out the baskets overhead. And Nelda made an announcement about the seating arrangement. We moved every day regardless.

Well now that was taken care of. Herr Rogers advised us to pick up 100 marks and 5 pounds. We passed a beautiful cemetery on the way into Lausanne. Flowers were growing on every grave with trees in between them. The graves were so close, they were almost piled on top of each other.
We had to stop several times for directions. Lausanne was a two story city. Some place farther on around the city, we came upon some excitement. I never would’ve believed we could clear the bus so fast.

There was a group parading up the street in clown costumes with huge plumes for hats. It was very colorful with all the prancing around. We followed them up the street and I took a couple of pictures. They even posed for one for me. It seemed they were from Belgium and there had been a big festival in Lausanne Saturday and Sunday. Rumor had it that the festival was at 8:30 p.m.
After the excitement calmed down, we looked around and discovered our hotel right beside us. The Hotel Des Voyageurs didn’t have much of a lobby. The office was actually one flight up.

Helen, Margaret and I were in room 33. I followed Helen in but there was only one bed. After some confusion, we discovered the error. We had gone into room 35 with one bed instead of Room 33 with three beds. Then we had a snack in room with Mary and Helen and added 3 glasses of milk from the hotel dining room for 1 franc. Then we headed off to find the festival. Finally we discovered the right spot on the top story of Lausanne. It cost 1 franc to stand up and another to sit down. So we stood.

There was a band in dark uniforms with gold braid. We found out from a boy, a fellow standee, that they came from Alsace Loraine in France for the festival. It consisted of a Bugle Corp, Drum Corp, and Concert Band. The drummers clicked their sticks and the buglers twirled their bugles like the military bands we saw in Nice. We decided to leave before the last number to find the men with the plumy hats.We crossed the bridge, then down some stairs and up into a big theatre.

We went in and saw the last few pictures flash by. Not sure which way to go we asked the usher the way back to our hotel. He explained that the theatre covered both stories of Lausanne. We walked back up to the top story and through the theatre. It was very luxurious, and interesting too. We discovered a hotel lit-up in neon lights next to the sky. With a star we navigated our way home. Next morning we found out our plumed friends performance followed the band. Shucks!

60 Years Ago Today

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Saturday, 12 July 1952:

The bed was almost as good as Zermatt’s bed and I didn’t want to get up for a second day in a row. Besides nobody had knocked on our door. I quickly ran down to the WC and got lost on the way back. This hotel had more hallways than I could imagine. Everybody else had their bags down in the lobby except “I.”

Finally, I was ready. I madly dashed out the door and ran down the hall. Five minutes later I think I took the wrong path. I didn’t even come to the elevators, but instead found cement stairs. So hoping to save time by not retracing my steps I charged down the stairs and ended up in the laundry. A little maid showed me the way out.

Upstairs again I finally found the street but what street! I took off in the direction of what I supposed was the lake. Then one block later I was on the street in front of the hotel. The gang was coming down the sidewalk on the other side of the street. A nice man said, “Didn’t you stay here last night?” and told me “I’ll be back in a minute to help you with that bag.” But I couldn’t wait. Herr Rogers and Alicia were standing by the bus waiting. Dot helped me carry my suitcase the last mile. Alicia had gone back to try and find me.

We drove by a large lake boat to Geneva. Alicia was out foraging for food. So I ended up with two oranges and a roll for breakfast. However after getting on the boat, we found out they were serving breakfast. So before long, I found myself downstairs eating more breakfast. I had hot milk, ham and eggs baked in a casserole, and bread. It was delicious to say the least.
Back on deck, I raved so much about it that some of the other kids decided they were hungry. When they returned and we compared notes, we discovered they had eaten in the first class dining room. It cost 1 franc more for the same meal.

The scenery was superb all around the lake as we stopped at each lakeside town. We were impressed with the beautiful fountain in Lausanne on our way to Geneva. Lac Leman was also known as Lake Geneva. Andre was waiting for us when we landed at the Promenade du Lac. There was a beautiful park and monument.

Then we arrived at the Hotel Residence which had a nice dining room and lobby. My room 139 was on the 5th floor. It had a balcony and a bathroom at the end of the hall that I made immediate use of. Then I felt like a new woman! I helped Dick by fitting his pants on him so I could fix them. Afterwards I did my washing and organizing.

Next I was off to do some shopping for food. Geneva had nice clean shops. Soon after we had a banquet for 3.50 francs each. Alicia took a can of tuna down to the kitchen to get it opened, and it turned out to be quite the operation.

We were off to see the town of Geneva at 5:30 p.m. We found out the shops were closed. As we tried to find Promenade du Lac, we lost our way and ended up at Promenade du Bastian. In our journey we saw a grade school with a statue of Donald Duck and the headquarters of the American Red Cross. We found an open door and music at De l’ Athenee. Then we snuck a peek in a room filled with paintings by very young artists.

Afterwards, we caught sight of little minnows swimming in a pond in front of the Monument de la Reformation. We discovered statues and bas-reliefs showing the steps in the Reformation process and those who brought it about. It featured documents such as the Bill of Rights, the Mayflower Compact and the Lord’s Prayer. There were large statues of Calvin, Foral, Breze and Knox, who were four great leaders of the Reformation as well as Cromwell and Roger Williams. I took pictures of people from India in front of this monument.

Soon after I spotted a statue of Antoine Carter in front of the University of Geneva. At the University we passed through the library and Musee d’Histoire Naturelle. Inside the library of the University we discovered a notice for U.S. GI’s to pick up their checks. There was a fence around the University campus or at least part of it.

I took pictures of the pond in front of Dufour’s statues which is across from the Musee Rath at Place Neuve. As we continued the tour at the Grand Opera Conservatory of Music, Alicia lost her talk for church tomorrow. I spied a Plaque Republic of Geneva on a wall built in 1600 a.d. Everything was closed up. This was really different. Then we moved on to Pont de l’Ile with its old tower from 1700’s a.d. I attempted a conversation with a waiter to find out about it. He told me Philibert Berthelier, a Swiss patriot, was decapitated here. There were historical pictures in charcoal on burlap that decorated the walls of the bar. We wandered down the river bank.

Hunger pangs were rising again, but I had to think of the budget. Then I spotted fish swarming below the bridge on Rousseau Island. At the other side of this bridge we finally located the Promenade de Lac where the concert was scheduled to be held later that night. Before the concert, we had to find food else we would never enjoy said concert.

We priced several restaurants, but they seemed a little high. After talking to a waiter at an expensive restaurant, we got some directions for a good economical restaurant. We set out to search and found the street, but I’ll be damned if that restaurant was there. After awhile we gave up and tried to find our way back to one café that seemed to be within the higher limits of our budget.

We ran across an old tower that we had passed previously. We nabbed onto it as a landmark. Funny thing how they build the new building right over the old building. After wandering around a couple of blocks we sighted Herr Watkins in a café right next to the one we were trying to find. He had just finished a light lunch, because he had indulged with too many souvenirs. Herr said he was still hungry, but would cinch up his belt instead of eating. He had eaten in the café next door for lunch and recommended it.

We tried to sit down in the fore part of the café, but when we mentioned dinner they ushered us into the dining room with table cloths. By leaving off one course we had a delicious dinner and twice as much as we could eat for 5 francs plus tip. We had to leave a big plate of french fries, large piece of roast beef, and a roll.

With a little encouragement from Alicia and a reminder that after all she had gotten the tuna opened via the bellboy, kitchen, and scullery. I asked the waiter for a napkin to wrap up the piece of meat and roll sandwich since we had decided to take it back to Herr Watkins. A lady and man nearby had a fit. Dessert by the way was the most delicious I had experienced—sherbert, fresh strawberries and cream. Emptier stomachs to enjoy it on would have been the only thing that could have improved the dessert.

We rushed over to the concert slightly late. In fact, when we sighted two seats and sat down, the fellow sitting next told us there was only one number left by Rimsky Korsakov. We discovered afterwards that audience members on the sit down seats were supposed to pay. The fellow next to us made a remark to this effect, but it was hardly worth it for one number. We were not accosted for money, so we didn’t pay.

The gentleman asked us where we were from? When Alicia said BYU in Provo, Utah, he asked if we were Mormons. We were quite amazed that he had even heard about the Mormons. He explained that he was a theology student and had studied about us. He had met male members of our church, but not any Mormon women.

We ran into part of our group after the concert and went window shopping. Then we found our way home via the tracks. Just when we thought surely we were lost and we had gone too far, there ahead of us sat our pretty blue bus. We were lost no more. I said good night to the fish aquarium by the kitchen and started to fix Dick’s pants after crawling into bed. Lights went out and I coughed myself to sleep.

Side note about Switzerland, streetside “dealies” were thankfully much more modest than in Italy and France.

60 Years Ago Today

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Friday, 11 July 1952:

The bed was too wonderful! Even more comfortable than when I first crawled into it. I had to get up though. There were new fields to conquer. First on the list was the post office where I mailed five cards for 2.75 francs. Looking around I discovered that the Matterhorn was at its best. The sky was crystal clear blue and peak free of clouds.

As we tried to catch the train, there was not enough room on the train for us. Herr Rogers explained that there were 36 of us so the train workers rolled the baggage car onto the next track and put on another car. Herr Rogers helped. We experienced the same beautiful scenery on the way down or maybe even more so. It kind of grew on you.

As we reached the Stalden station, we were confused whether or not to get off. Andre where art thou? Nope, stay on. Herr Rogers breathlessly came dashing in with more tickets to go on to Visp. Andre couldn’t get through. We prayed that he was at Visp. We were captivated once again with more picturesque scenery of the kind that defied description. One had to see it to appreciate it.
Visp was coming up. Could anyone see Andre? Yes, yes, there he was. Whatta reunion! Never were we so glad to see Andre. Fifteen “rahs” for Andre! Another fifteen rahs because our baggage was all repacked and ready to go. I’ll bet Andre felt like the hen who just found his 36 chicks. Cause we swarmed around him just like chicks around a mother hen.

More beautiful countryside ahead, in stark contrast to tank barriers and mined roads. I spotted a landing strip on both sides of a tree-lined road. It rounded and crossed the road at one end. The hanger was camouflaged with straw.

We traveled through Rhone Valley where it was warmer. We viewed ruins of an old castle on a hilltop, this was the French section of Switzerland. They irrigated by sprinklers. Everyone had lunch on the road again. It included cherry jam sandwiches, an apple, and a cookie. When we crossed the Rhone River, it was a tight squeeze getting the bus onto the bridge. Then there was a sharp turn, but Andre always came through. At 1 p.m. we arrived at Lake Geneva with its beautiful blue water. Later we ran into some road repair.

Castle of Chillon, built in 1256 by Peter of Savoy, was where Byron got his inspiration for the Prisoner of Chillon, a 659 line narrative poem. We walked down the road to the castle and saw a camouflaged gun mounted in a wall along the road. The castle bore the emblem of Berne from 1536 a.d. and was built to guard the road and collect toll taxes.

There was a Gothic prison downstairs with stone slabs for those condemned to death and a hole where some prisoners were thrown down and forgotten. Also I saw the gallows and windows where prisoners were thrown into the lake with a stone tied to them. Byron’s poem described the trials of a lone survivor of a family. He spent four years in prison and was almost blind. Byron visited him and carved his name in the stone.

The guide said that a big banquet was scheduled there for that evening. Candles were at each place setting. What an atmosphere! We saw banquet halls with heavy old pewter ware, swords, and other weapons. Then we proceeded through the torture chambers. We had a good English speaking guide. She was an Italian looking lady with dark hair and a pleasant voice. I noticed her beautiful ivory necklace.

Next on the tour was the old moat, towers and places where they poured boiling hot water on their attackers. I didn’t have my notebook with me and couldn’t remember everything she told us. I bought a souvenir, book of Chillon, at the little shop outside the gate. Then it was back to the bus and off to the hotel.

The hotel turned out to be a large, pretty place right along the highway overlooking the Lac Leman on the outskirts of Montreux. It had a beautiful lobby downstairs, game room, and a pleasant girl at the front desk. When I asked her a question about the concert, the phone rang. She lifted the receiver and kept talking to me until she had finished.

The hotel, though it had seen better days, was still nice. And it turned out to be the only hotel so far without running water in the rooms. We had huge pitchers of water, large basins, a “dealy” in which to pour the waste water, and a big long soap dish. All of this was flowered crockery. I got lost almost every time I left my room with too many twists and turns. I cleaned up slightly to go visiting. Herr Watkins, Alicia, Henry and I took off for Montreux Proper to find the folks of Herr’s home teacher back home in Orem. We decided to walk instead of using the train so we had a chance to window shop on the way.

One store had darling little dresses. Herr Watkins finally succumbed and ended up with one for his little girl. After wandering around in a couple of circles, we found the right street and number. Up some stairs we went and knocked on the door. A little, slightly stooped man peered over his glasses at us. Herr Watkins explained to him in German who we were. I guess we took him by surprise because he seemed a little at a loss. He asked us to come back at 7:30 p.m. when his wife, who spoke English, would be home. Before we left, his kids squirted us with their water guns.

After saying adieu to Art and Henry, we went window shopping for awhile. Then we searched for a likely eating spot. We finally settled for a tea room that looked more French than Swiss. It was cool and pleasant. I had a plate of assorted cold meat and a milk shake. Ha! Ha! They should let us show them how to make milk shakes. After I went to a perfume shop and “john” at the big station.

Later we went back to visit Herr’s friend’s parents. They were thrilled to see us and had been crying for fear that we wouldn’t come back. They had a dressmaker and tailor shop in their home. They once had a dressmaking shop under our hotel, in the days when it was Montreux’s biggest and best, that catered to royalty. Their flat was clean and nice, but quite modest.
We looked at pictures, talked a little German with them and they showed us around. We went for a boat ride around the lake and, unfortunately, saw a crowd at the side of the lake that was looking for a drowned man’s body.

As we passed Chillon, it was all lit up. People at the banquet waved to us as we circled around the lake. What a beautiful night and city with weeping willows everywhere. They insisted on taking us to the casino for a drink. The casino insisted on charging 2.50 for drinks plus 15 cents cover. I had a really jippy ginger ale. There was a New York band with an interesting floor show. Other entertainment included: four ballet dancers, comedy team, and a Spanish number. The roulette table was quite a temptation for me. Later we walked home with them and then back to the hotel ourselves.

60 Years Ago Today

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Thursday, 10 July 1952:

I just gained consciousness at 12:15 p.m. in the afternoon. What a wonderful 12 hours or more of sleep! It was the most sleep I had had since long before I can remember—long before I left the USA that’s for sure.

Wow! I realized I could eat a horse to put it mildly. A crowd of kids in front of the hotel directed us to their favorite restaurant. The restaurant was a red shuttered deal down the street in a charmingly typical village. Everyone seemed to be on their way to hike or returning from a hike. They wore coats by the way. Guess we didn’t lug ours all this way for nothing.

The waitress wore a Swiss costume. They even let us take their picture. I had a delicious dinner for 4.50 franc. I filled my soup bowl twice and there was still enough left for a third time. It was in a copper warmer on legs with candles inside. My platter included a pile of fluffy mashed potatoes on top of two pork chops, bowl of salad, and turnips. There was enough for several servings of each. But I had to gulp down the delicious ice cream because there went the mob around the bend to the ski lift. That made us tail-enders again.

Such a picturesque trail with all kinds of little chalets. There was a saying that Zermatt had the population of 1000 inhabitants and 7000 tourists. The natives were almost exclusively engaged in taking care of the visitors. I was glad that we made it in time to go with the mob because it saved me 1.50 franc, net cost 3.50 franc. Alicia and I were next to last in line. Herr Rogers and Mrs. Rogers brought up the rear after seeing that everyone was duly taken care of. It was my first ride on a ski lift! And it was quite a thrill with a wonderful view of the countryside. I went over the top of the first hill just to see another hill beyond that. The lift ended on the top. A sign on the bar that held us in the lift said “Do Not Swing.”

We hiked on up from the lift house and waited for the clouds to clear in order to take pictures of the Matterhorn. On the trail we met many Swiss German, Swiss French, and Swiss Italians. I tried to talk to them, but found it a little difficult. However, I managed to get a few ideas across. People were very friendly and most of them spoke several languages which usually included French and German.

We topped a couple of hills and returned to the lift. Then I had a great big bottle of orangeade. Now I was ready for the return ride. Halfway down the lift I had a tremendous urge to take a picture, but I had used my last picture up on the mountain. I had to curb that urge.

Back on the street, I saw a lady milking a cow. She was very friendly and lived above the barn. Next stop was the hotel. After a quick break to lighten our load, we took off for an excursion to the village. We picked up a bunch of food—apple, pear, box of raisins, delicious Swiss chocolate—as we left. We washed the fruit in the first watering trough. There were people returning from the mountains on every trail. It seemed all trails led back to Zermatt.

Switzerland was really international as you could hear any tongue your heart desires. Most of the people were dressed comfortably, but not richly with heavy shoes and socks, often long wool socks. I had picked up a picture of a beautiful waterfall at the hotel, so we inquired how to find our way to the real thing.

As we left for the waterfall we met people coming back from the fields with their scythes and forks. It was hay making time. Then we made our way to Gorner’s Villa, a little inn upon the mountainside. Around the corner a frau was waiting for us by a sign. It cost 1 franc to go by. Wouldn’t you know it! The man at the hotel didn’t mention this. Well if it was worth charging for, it must be worth seeing. I guess? Far be it from me to turn back now.

There were stairs going down to a bridge. The path was built right into the side of the perpendicular gorge. Another bridge went across the gorge with water foaming angrily below it. The waterfall was cutting its way through the mountain. A man came along behind us and explained that the rushing water had cut the gorge out of the mountain over a period of years. Now the gorge was deep. I chanced a couple of pictures even though the light was poor.

I think we missed the trail on the way back because we ended up in a hay field. A farmer stopped his work of turning hay and talked to us. In addition to his occupation as a farmer, he was a guide and professional skier. He was a farmer through the summer months in order to grow feed for the other nine months of the year. The cattle were put out to graze during the summer months. He tilled the same land ancestors had tilled for the last 600 years. Furthermore, he spoke very good English in addition to several other languages.

Now that we had found our way back on the pathway, we discovered a crossroad with several paths leading back to Zermatt. We tried to find out which path was the prettiest. “They were all pretty” was the answer. We chose by the eenie meenie miney mo method to decide our direction.
We ended up going back by the church graveyard, where all those who had been conquered by the Matterhorn were resting their bones. It was quite an imposing area of tombstones with some rather recent tombstones as well. Those who wanted to attempt to climb the Matterhorn should visit here first. Then perhaps they would exercise every precaution in their attempt to conquer the Matterhorn.

The graveyard was peaceful and beautiful. Flowers were growing on almost every grave with lots of big wreaths of little colored beads, trees, and shrubs. Many other natives of the village rest here along with the daring mountain climbers. I ate pretzels on the way home.

As we went back to Hotel Victoria everyone was all excited. A lady down the street was offering a 15% discount if our group bought $200 worth of merchandise. Most everyone succumbed to this deal as witnessed by the loot that was brought back later. From reports I gathered our mob had driven the shop lady slightly mad. Carol and Alene had succumbed earlier, as well, and both were sporting quite beautiful Swiss specimens. Carol and I crawled down through the village to see what was brewing, but things seemed relatively quiet.

So we returned and drooled over the loot before returning to our luscious beds. I would love to take this bed with me wherever I go. I received mail from my parents at each mail stop so far. I wrote them about Zermatt and the Matterhorn. It was as beautiful in its own way as Venice, Florence or Rome.

60 Years Ago Today

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Wednesday, 9 July 1952:

I had a delicious cold shower this morning. We had been staying on the top floor of a boys’ dorm. A little man had locked our door from the outside during the night and had stood guard all night long to presumably protect us from the men. I took my bag down from our room on the top floor. We were miles away from where the rest of our crew were staying. Our group was really separated this time. Across the street I got fruit for lunch where oranges were 300 lire a kilo. Then we left and had little trouble finding our way out of Milano.

We traveled on Autostrada, a toll road. I caught sight of Lake Magiore. It looked like a wonderful place to spend a lifetime. There was an island out in the middle like Venezia. As the mountains got higher, the air cooled. Switzerland was coming up! We stopped at a small town about 12 miles from the border, Domodossola, to unload the last lire. It was one U.S. cent for the “john”.

We were definitely leaving the low country now. The sheer mountain peaks were rising abruptly as we left our last stop. I felt the Swiss influence or maybe it was the influence of the mountains. There were swift running streams, little rock houses, and winding mountain roads with patches of snow. The border buildings were unimpressive. In between all of this I saw a 1952 Studebaker.

There wasn’t any red tape on the Italian border, but at the Swiss border our passports were checked. As we journeyed into Switzerland, there was a swift moving stream between our bus and the sheer rugged cliffs. Herr Watkins commented that we were leaving behind the academic part of our tour and entering the esthetic portion.

Everyone was excited about going into Switzerland—such breathtaking scenery! Beautiful meadows stretched right up to the edges of the snow. Families were outside making hay on the hillsides. I saw a little boy under an umbrella on a hill by Simplon Pass. Also I saw the movie Heidi relived on the mountainside in my mind. All of us were shooting pictures out of the window.

There were fortifications in several places along the way. We found out the roads were mined and were ready to be blown up at a moment’s notice. This was in case of an invasion. Meanwhile the bus had clutch trouble, so we stopped at the next rest stop.

While we were at the rest stop, Carmela was busy gathering bugs with Henry’s milk bottle. At the same time Henry was searching madly for his bottle to get milk from a Swiss farmer. The current topic of conversation was milking cows. As we continued there was more snow visible in the mountains and it was much cooler, so bringing our coats hadn’t been for naught.

The water was finding its way down the mountain in little rivulets. Herr Rogers gave a Swiss lecture about how mountains play a big part in Swiss life. The Alps and Jero Range helped form a border between France and Switzerland. These mountain barriers helped the Swiss people maintain their independence. Switzerland with few natural resources was dependent upon tourist trade.

We hit a 12 mile tunnel, Simplon Pass, where the passes were mined and fortified. Then I saw a valley meadow with an old church where workers were removing the mines along the road. There was a free shower outside. When I saw little kids herding cows, it reminded me of my childhood. Switzerland had 22 cantons, a small administrative division of the country, which occupied distinct valleys.

As we stopped for gas and milk I saw a large statue of an eagle on a hill top at the summit pass. SOS casa contoniera is the Swiss’ rest stop. Back on the bus there were colored mountain goats on the inclines and little clouds hanging down between the huge mountain walls on the east side. Beautiful waterfalls dotted the mountains as well. What terrific scenery!

Herr Watkins yelled out and asked a man if he knew his great grandmother. Then there was some kind of bottleneck ahead. All the men jumped out to investigate. The rain had washed the bridge away. We couldn’t wait for it to be fixed or we would miss the train to Zermatt.

So we had a council of war with a decision to be made. I guess we were going on a cross country hike to the bridge. We got our suitcases down. The kids opened them on the road in the rain to get their supplies out for two nights. We definitely got our raincoats and boots out as well. With big suitcases back inside the bus, we bid adieu to Andre.

Whatta sight! Thirty-six characters with different kinds of garb and bags on a cross country hike. As we met the road again, Herr Rogers buzzed by in a car in order to make arrangements ahead of us. Bonnie had a big suitcase and Helen’s suitcase was not so small. We thumbed a ride and everyone piled in with suitcases.

As the rain stopped, we could see the car’s tires going down so Helen and I got out and walked. We shed our coats and brought up the rear. It was a beautiful refreshing walk in the Swiss countryside. As we strolled into the town of Brig, a little boy leaned out of a three-story window to wave. Brig had clean streets and shops.

At the railroad station, I changed my first traveler’s check into Swiss francs. My insides were groaning with hunger. We found a café in the station that provided a delicious meal for 4.25 francs plus tip. I had spaghetti and pork. It was time for the train, so the waitress put the fruit for dessert in a sack and we ran out.

Somehow I got out on the wrong side of the depot. Probably because there were train tracks all over the place. I ran around madly trying to find a sortie. In the process I darted into the same office twice and finally remembered the stairs I had used to get to the café. It was past time for the train to leave as I dashed frantically out the right door onto the right track.

No one was in sight. I couldn’t see a train on the track and a sinking feeling set in. I asked the first person I came to if the train for Zermatt had gone. “No, it’s right there,” as they pointed to the next track. I peered in the windows. Yep! There they were. What a relief!

It was an interesting train ride to Zermatt. I practiced a little German with servicemen on leave from Frankfurt. The scenery was rugged with magnificent meadows right up to the snow line. The water and waterfalls were trickling down the mountainsides in unexpected places with a view of little houses with rock shingles. My first glimpse of the Matterhorn was impressive with its stark rugged peak above all the rest and clouds hung all around it.

We made it to Zermatt! All out. Hotel where art thou? It was right across the street. First class too. My room 14 was right off a beautiful lobby. OOOh! The bed looked positively luscious with a beautiful fluffy silk comforter on top. It felt like we may need it here. There were double sinks that were big enough to take a bath in if necessary, plus overstuffed chairs. Gee it was quiet. There were no cars.

First job on the docket was to remove the dirt of Mount Vesuvius from our tresses. Believe it or not, my hair hasn’t had a real shampoo other than the swimming on the first night in Rome when I went to the concert with wet hair. I went out to the desk to check on maps and events. Then I crawled into bed to write. Whatta farce! I should have known better than that. I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.